Review: Archie Rose Heritage Red Gum Cask Single Malt Whisky

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Image – Archie Rose Distilling Co.

Firstly, I’d highly encourage you to read Dave Withers’ wonderful piece on the story and history behind this new Red Gum Cask single malt whisky.

I first heard the story and saw the casks when Dave was showing me around the Archie Rose Banksmeadow site back in December 2020. What a yarn! There’s exceptional heritage and passion behind the making of this whisky, and that shows in the final drop.

I’ve visited many wineries across New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia in the last decade where parcels of these old native wood casks have been hidden away for decades. Records that I’ve come across indicate that native wood casks have been used to mature wine, spirit and beer in Australia since the late 1800s, possibly earlier. However, they were understandably derided for the unwanted flavours they introduced.

It was only very recently that winemakers, distillers and coopers cottoned on to the utterly unique proposition these casks can bring to aged whiskies, rums or even brandies.

Unfortunately, most of these old red gum and jarrah casks and vats, many of which date back to the 1920s, 30s and 40s, were disposed of or turned into furniture. But some have survived, so I’m hoping that this bottling is the first of more to come. (The second fill potential here is even more exciting.)

Both myself and Ev Liong have been covering this little native wood whisky trend for a number of years now. Leigh and Bree Attwood at Backwoods have been leading the charge, while a number of other distillers are learning about how best to harness the powerful flavours these woods inject into their whiskies.

Long term, there’s still a lot of scepticism around the viability of the practice, because it seems likely that native wood needs to be seasoned and treated for many years before it can be used to successfully mature spirit.

But for the moment, put aside your prejudice and get out and try this new Archie Rose expression.

  • Archie Rose Heritage Red Gum Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled April 2019 at Archie Rose's original Roseberry site from a mash bill of Voyager schooner malt, floor malted amber malt, floor malted crystal malt and Voyager chocolate malt. Matured in ex-apera casks coopered from red gum that have reportedly been maturing wine since the 1930s. Released February 2024. 3950 bottles in total.
    • Location: Sydney, NSW
    • Score: 88
    Nose
    Dark chocolate and roasted malts upfront. Big malt character here – despite the early red gum notes, this is still very Archie Rose. Dried apricot, paprika and bush tomato, peppermint chocolate and eucalyptus. The apera influence is lurking, sultanas and cloves, and you can smell how the red gum wood has been tamed by decades of sticky wine influence. Now with malt spirit added to the equation, it's simply unlike anything I've come across before. Give it some time, too. Becomes more floral and fragrant as the elements start to meld together.
    Palate
    Really well integrated considering the spectrum of flavours on offer. Caramel and macadamia as the malts fuse with the cask influence, which isn't as red gum heavy as you might expect. Slightly meaty and savoury, burnt orange, apera spice and fruitcake. A drier Ovaltine and cocoa character as it progresses. Surprisingly clean overall.
    Finish
    Dry and tangy through the tail. That earthy, paprika spice returns. Rocky road chocolate and old huts up in the Snowy Mountains.
    Comments
    Another big step forward for the creation of high-quality native wood matured whiskies. The story of these casks is truly brilliant – there's incredible liquid history behind the flavours you taste here, and a big congrats to Dave Withers and the team for their foresight and skill in pulling this off. It might not be to everyone's taste, but I highly recommend giving it a try. A true original, and a wonderful celebration of Australia's wine, whisky and malting heritage.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.