Review: South Australian whisky tour 2023

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South Australian whisky is progressing at pace, as you can see from the snapshot below. I’ve travelled through the wine state on two occasions this year and the spirits industry is booming.

There’s no doubt whisky will be a big part of the SA spirits story moving forward. But how will South Australian whisky define itself against the rest of the country’s producers? Does it even need to?

Naturally, wine casks will feature prominently. When talking to some of the SA distillers featured below, there’s still debate about how ‘wine-cask forward’ their whiskies should be. Some have even told me they’re thinking about going the other way entirely and maturing the bulk of their whisky in ex-Bourbon or less active refill casks.

The diversity of approaches is something we’ve already encountered when reviewing other SA producers not featured here, including the superlative St Agnes Distillery, Barossa Distilling Co, 36 Short Distillery, and Adelaide Distillery Co.

One of the strengths of the SA scene is the variety of the offering. From exceptional single malt to profound experimental approaches with native grains and other cereals, and now, keenly priced core range bottlings that ask questions of whisky produced in other parts of the country.

Across the board, SA new make is first rate. Quality local grain along with a deep understanding of brewing and fermentation in South Australia has assisted there. Cask selection will continue to improve in coming years as well, especially as larger parcels of aged stock come online and distillers develop a better understanding of which casks, which wine casks in particular, work best with their spirit and how to manage their influence.

But all the ingredients are here. And as Fleurieu Distillery’s Gareth and Angela Andrews have already proven, when you get the details and the recipe right (even a recipe for a vacuous brand), then South Australia can produce some of the finest whisky made anywhere in this part of the world.

  • 23rd Street Kangaroo Island Barley
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Starts with Kangaroo Island barley which is mashed and fermented at Vale Brewing in McLaren Vale. Wash from here is then sent to 23rd Street Distillery in Renmark, distilled, and matured for a minimum three years in ex-Bourbon barrels.
    • Location: Renmark, SA
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    Takes time to open up. Vanilla and tropical fruit - apricot core, banana - when it finally does. Subtle malt and biscuit notes, hayfield, saline solution and orange oil. Savoury, fresh and a little youthful.
    Palate
    Good malt structure and palate weight. Slight herbal, wood shavings character and a hint of young spirit. Toffee and wood spice as it progresses and spirit and cask come together.
    Finish
    Nice grip and carry and the malt lingers.
    Comments
    A definite improvement on the first batch of 23rd Street malt, which was an odd thing. This shows progression, and it's brilliant to see malt and its origins championed in this way. Keen to try future batches with more time in cask.
  • Woodwater Distillery Red Gum Single Malt WHisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Justin Mok at Rochfort Distillery (now Cut Hill Distillery) from a mash of pilsner, crystal roasted malt and chocolate malt. Matured in a 100 litre red gum cask sourced from an undisclosed winery in the Barossa - the red gum was previously used in vats holding fortified wine for around 20 years before being recoopered into a cask. Released May 2023. 70 bottles in total.
    • Location: Hindmarsh, SA
    • Score: 80
    Nose
    Surprisingly restrained considering the cask treatment. Dried fig, apricot jam and butterscotch notes from fortifieds. The red gum comes on all earthy, wattleseed and petrichor. Lovely aromatics.
    Palate
    Wow, fun, but a little hot and grippy, too. The red gum spice is fascinating: it lands somewhere between bush tomato, cumin and paprika - a distinctly earthy, Australian flavour. Stewed fruit and sugars from the fortified in the wood, and although there's good malt and spirit weight here to counter the intensity of the cask treatment, the cask starts to override things as it progresses. Water helped to open up and smooth out whole.
    Finish
    Turns a little bitter, coffee and dark chocolate. More wood spice on the tail.
    Comments
    So much to like. All the elements are here, they just haven't quite married up fully. The flavours are stunning, but I wonder if a larger cask format might allow things to better integrate over time. Very cool project.
  • Fleurieu Hunting of the Snark Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 47%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Fleurieu Distillery and matured in ex-apera casks with peated components. Released August 2023. 520 bottles in total.
    • Location: Goolwa, SA
    • Score: 92
    Nose
    Flashes of Islay on the nose. Charcoal and caramel walnuts move into floral, coastal notes. Barley sugars and fruitcake. So composed and balanced.
    Palate
    Instantly malt-forward. Sweet smoke and jerky, leather and cinnamon. The cask influence just supports the spirit here, doesn't get in its way. Love the ABV choice.
    Finish
    Smoke, vanilla and malt biscuits linger. Estery fruits and a touch of apera spice.
    Comments
    It's easy to see why this Fleurieu bottling has won so many awards this year. Balance is key to the equation. There's a lot going on here between the peated elements, the subtle apera and that oily, spicy Fleurieu spirit, but it's all been worked into a harmonious package. A delicious drinking whisky as well, despite the layers and complexity. Grab a bottle, open, share, repeat.
  • The Bird Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 48%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Fleurieu Distillery and matured in 225 litre apera casks. Whisky from these casks was married together and then briefly finished in a Bird in Hand Chardonnay cask. The brand was founded by Mark Bouris, Andrew Nugent and Paul Giles and first released in late 2022.
    • Location: Woodside, SA
    • Score: 89
    Nose
    A restrained take on the normally bold Fleurieu spirit. Bright, malty and citrusy. Caraway, macadamia, toast and stewed fruits. Some lovely florals and green fruit esters.
    Palate
    Clean, malty and oily. Excellent balance, and decidedly spirit-forward. Marshmallow, curry leaf, hint of smoke and orange oil.
    Finish
    Not quite the finish I was expecting, but tapers nicely.
    Comments
    A polished version of Goolwa's finest. Can't say I think much of the brand (just drink Fleurieu and bypass the marketing bollocks). But if it helps spread the SA whisky story further, that's a positive. The liquid itself is hard to fault, and the blending and finishing has smoothed this into a pretty delicious thing.
  • 78 Degrees Australian Whiskey (Batch No. 14)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 44%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Not a malt whisky, not a grain whisky. Barley whisky? Completely unique this one.
    • Production Story: Distilled in a single shot through 78 Degrees Distillery's hybrid pot column from a mash of unmalted barley and a range specialty malts. Matured in a combination of French and American oak ex-wine casks. 2000 bottles in batch 14.
    • Location: Hay Valley, SA
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    Cereal and spice to start. You pick up the influence of the specialty malts early: rocky road chocolate, ginger snap biscuits and wholemeal bread, then nutmeg and baking spices. The wine cask components say hello with dried fruits and red lollies.
    Palate
    Certainly more mature than the earlier batches I've tried. Cocoa and biscuits from this unique spirit, lovely fruits in there, too, apricot and raspberries. The wine influence has been really well managed, it's there but it's not overbearing.
    Finish
    Not the longest, but there's enough spice, citrus and wine cask elements to round it out.
    Comments
    Shows real improvement on earlier batches. Sharply priced and manages to taste like something uniquely Australian, which is a real achievement. Fascinating to see how this bottling will progress in coming years.
  • McLaren Vale Distillery Penny's Hill (Muscat Finish) Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 55%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at McLaren Vale Distillery and matured in a combination of wine casks before being finished in French oak muscat casks. Released August 2023. 600 bottles in total.
    • Location: Blewitt Springs, SA
    • Score: 90
    Nose
    Big sweet wine and spice upfront. Old wine-soaked wood and Australian brandy notes. Maraschino and Christmas cake, raisins and treacle. Malt and spirit still there, though.
    Palate
    Luscious. Jammy, textural and full of wine and dark chocolate. Clove and nutmeg as the wood grips but the spirit just does enough to hold up against the richness extracted from the cask
    Finish
    Dense. Milk coffee and a slight wine funk.
    Comments
    If you're a fan of rich and textural wine cask whisky, this will hit the spot. Serious complexity here, and you can easily get lost wading through the sweet, musty depths of the component casks. Now that all the backend stuff has been mostly sorted out, mark McLaren Vale Distillery down as one of the top South Australian whisky producers to watch.
  • Cut Hill Distillery ‘Keystone Release’ Stonecutter Selection Shiraz Cask Batch #1
    The Stats
    • ABV: 57.3%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Originally distilled in 2017 at McLaren Vale Distillery and matured in a single shiraz cask sourced from a McLaren Vale winery. The Keystone Release bottlings are specially selected by Cut Hill's head distiller (presumably Hugh Holds at this point). Bottled June 8 2022.
    • Location: Hindmarsh Valley, SA
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    A little muted at first, eventually opens up with toffee and stewed berries. Nutty and wine-forward, dried fruit, earthy, spice rack.
    Palate
    Grips much more than expected. Rich and thick, but quite dry as well. Tobacco, aniseed, fruitcake and jam. Dark berries and red rose notes but then some fuzzy tannin starts to take over. Water helped a little.
    Finish
    The tannin and fuzz continues.
    Comments
    Takes you in a few different directions. There's fruit and malt complexity here, but tannins from the cask grip and turn things a little too wood and wine-driven.
  • 5Nines Distilling Cola Finish Cask (5ND310)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 47.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at 5Nines Distilling on 26 November 2018 and initially matured in an ex-white wine cask before being finished for 8 months in cask seasoned with cola. Released August 2021. 335 bottles in total.
    • Location: Adelaide, SA
    • Score: 80
    Nose
    Stewed fruits, quince and the expected cola flavours. Treacle, brown sugar, fleshy vinous notes and berries over youthful spirit.
    Palate
    Juicy, sweet and creamy. Sarsaparilla, oak-driven caramels. The sweetness papers over some spikes and prickles of youthful whisky.
    Finish
    Gets a little tart and dry. Spirit struggles to come through all the sticky sweetness.
    Comments
    This is good fun, and fairly well balanced all things considered. There are some spirity, youthful moments, but a whisky and cola was never meant to be seamless, right?
  • Iniquity Talamara Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 40%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Tin Shed Distilling Co and parcels of the spirit here were lightly peated with peat from a property originally called Talamara. Initially matured in ex-shiraz casks before being finished in a mix of port and sherry casks. Released September 2023.
    • Location: Adelaide, SA
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Classic Iniquity to start, big malt and toasted oak. Molasses, red berries and charred wood. Caramel and smoked meat.
    Palate
    Rich and full-bodied with a hint of youth. Minimal smoke on the palate, but plenty of butterscotch, vanilla and burnt orange as the shiraz and fortified components integrate.
    Finish
    Not quite the follow through of other Iniquity expressions, but good malt and texture with a lick of smoked wood.
    Comments
    The wine cask component is forward, but it doesn't overreach and the finish has really pulled this together. A solid offering for the price. Right up there in terms of value for money in Australian malt whisky terms ($99).
  • Tria Prima Bruxa Single Malt Whisky Batch 2
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Tria Prima Distillery and matured in three 100 litre Seppelstfield Tawny casks that were then married together. Released January 2023.
    • Location: Mount Barker, SA
    • Score: 85
    Nose
    Lovely creamy treacle note upfront. Pear, apricot and nougat. A palpable vinous nuttiness from the tawny although this feels more spirit-driven than previous bottlings.
    Palate
    Rich and rounded. Praline and baking spices, fruit & nut chocolate. Lovely malt structure which holds up well to the tawny influence.
    Finish
    Fruity, floral esters as it progresses. The tawny has the last word but the malt is still right there with it.
    Comments
    More spirit and malt-forward than previous Tria Prima whiskies I've tried. Very consistent offering from Paul Shand and this is no exception. High quality casks, good attention to detail, great flavours.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.