Dark Mofo review 2021: Whiskies of the Winter Feast

featured image
On tasting: Hobart Whisky Winter Feast 2021 Maple Stout Cask Finish, Spring Bay Limited Release Rum Cask, Killara Dark Mofo 2021 Rum Cask Finish, and Sullivans Cove Winter Feast Witches Brew 2021

Dark Mofo finished up yesterday, and I’ve been lucky to taste some of the 2021 bottlings and have a chat to those involved about the future of the event, which is currently under a cloud.

Since 2013, the festival has celebrated all that’s dark and decadent and won both fans and detractors for its polemical art installations, winter solstice nude swim and the popular Winter Feast.

It’s also brought Hobart and Tasmania to life during what used to be a dead period for tourists and visitors.

Tasmanian whisky makers jumped on board almost from the get go. Sullivans Cove was the first, releasing a whisky to coincide with the event in 2014, and an annual bottling every year since (they’re now fetching crazy coin on the secondary market). Half a dozen other whisky makers joined Sullivans in the years following, unleashing left of centre whiskies from their bondstores.

 

Sullivans Cove Winters Feast 2014

Cam Brett, president of The Tasmanian Whisky and Spirits Association and co-founder of Spring Bay Distillery, joined the party this year with Spring Bay’s first Dark Mofo bottling. The limited release, just under 50 bottles, was solely matured in a small rum cask, a first for Spring Bay.

‘This is the first time we’ve been at Dark Mofo representing Spring Bay at the feast,’ Brett told me. ‘So it was a nice little surprise when I looked back through the barrel register and thought, hang on, our little rum cask is going to be ready about now. It was good timing.’

 

Spring Bay Winter Feast Release 2021. Photo – Spring Bay Distillery

 

Photo – Old Kempton Distillery

Old Kempton, Taylor & Smith Distilling and Hobart Whisky also released Dark Mofo bottlings in conjunction with this year’s event.

Hobart Whisky, one of the festival’s keenest whisky supporters, continued their maple cask maturation theme this year. The distillery’s 2021 release was finished in a maple stout cask that was brewed in-house and served boilermaker-style alongside the whisky at the feast.

‘We try to work to a theme with our whisky and really go hard with our packaging to make it a bit more interesting for people,’ says John Jarvis, Hobart Whisky’s distillery manager. ‘It’s always a chaotic week, but we love being a part of it.’

 

Dark Mofo Winter Feast

But despite the roaring success of Dark Mofo in recent years, the future of the festival is uncertain. Last year’s event was cancelled due to the pandemic, and with a number of senior organisers moving on, the festival’s viability moving forward is in doubt.

But Cam Brett is confident the event will continue, so vital has Dark Mofo become to the Tasmanian calendar.

‘I was impressing on some of the organisers how important Dark Mofo has become and what it means for Tasmanians and Hobartians during winter. The celebration of winter in Tasmania during this period really lifts the spirits in what is the darkest and coldest part of the year…. I’m confident, and I’m planning on it proceeding next year.’

I hope Cam’s right. It’s a wicked event, and here’s what you can expect from some of the 2021 Dark Mofo bottlings. (Good luck trying to track any down.)

  • Hobart Whisky Winter Feast 2021 Barrel-Aged Maple Stout Cask Finish
    The Stats
    • ABV: 54.8%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Devil's Distillery and matured for over four years in 40 and 80 litre ex-Bourbon and ex-rum casks before finishing in a cask that was used to barrel-age an in-house brewed maple stout.
    • Location: Hobart, TAS
    • Score: 80
    Nose
    Molasses, butterscotch and pineapple tepache. A lot going on as the fruity Hobart spirit melds with maple syrup and carob powder from the stout.
    Palate
    A touch spirity, then golden syrup, rum baba and maple smoked bacon - guessing the latter's the stout influence. Tropical, too - more pineapple, peaches and turns to syrup-covered pancakes. Not sure the spirit and the cask(s) are fully together, but it's a ride.
    Finish
    Prickly syrup, dark chocolate and patisserie.
    Comments
    Look, this isn't for everyone. It's syrupy sweet, chocolatey, tropical, and sort of weird. But personally, I want to be drinking something zany and out there at Winter Feast. Nails the brief for me, and captures the spirit of the festival.
  • Spring Bay Single Malt Whisky Limited Release Rum Cask
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Spring Bay Distillery and matured for just under three years in a 20 litre rum cask coopered by Transwood Cooperage. 48 bottles in total.
    • Location: Spring Bay, TAS
    • Score: 83
    Nose
    All the Spring Bay sea salt and sweet malt. Builds into white bread, custard creams, and there's a floral rose note brightening things up.
    Palate
    Banana lollies and lots of vanilla. The rum influence is only subtle - there definitely wasn't a funky, juicy rum in this cask previously. Quite a gentle thing actually, and not as expressive as some of the core range bottlings.
    Finish
    Brief. Creamy and saline.
    Comments
    Clean, fun and bright. Not the most complex Spring Bay malt around, but the rum cask works really well with the fruity, coastal distillery profile.
  • Killara Single Malt Whisky Dark Mofo 2021 Rum Cask Finish
    The Stats
    • ABV: 47%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Killara Distillery and initially matured in an apera cask before being finished in an ex-rum cask. Bottled May 2021. 69 bottles in total.
    • Location: Richmond, TAS
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Confectionery and white flowers. Subtle hints of spice and treacle from the apera, then the rum influence adds pancakes, brioche and cookies and cream.
    Palate
    More subtle and easy going than other Killaras. Again, the rum influence brings on a creamy biscuit note but not much else. Lovely malt character humming along underneath.
    Finish
    Not the longest. Rum kicks on with figs and spice.
    Comments
    Fun, easy-going and pretty delicious. Not as weighty and textural as other Killara malts, more of a crowd pleaser this one.
  • Sullivans Cove Winter Feast 'Witches Brew' 2021
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52.3%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: For this year's 'Witches Brew', head distiller Heather Tillott married together whiskies from a variety casks. The youngest component was distilled in 2008 and this release was bottled in December 2020. 110 bottles in total.
    • Location: Cambridge, TAS
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Woah, some grunt, funk and spirit sulphur upfront. Deeper into it, there's lemon sorbet, lavender soap, honey and oats, subtle wood varnish and salted caramel.
    Palate
    Some heat and prickle, but gradually the elements come together. A spry, sort of spice and pear initially, but it's from the spirit rather than the cask (rare in the Aussie realm). Not a lot of cask influence, it's very spirit led. Savoury and salty.
    Finish
    Layers. Whereas a lot of Sullivans softly fade, this keeps bubbling.
    Comments
    I love how this pulls you in different directions but keeps bringing you back to the spirit and the malt. A little reminiscent of earlier Sullivans that were more spirit-forward and raw, but this has added layers of intrigue from the various casks used. Could spend a lot of time on this. Wicked stuff from Heather Tillott as usual.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.