Whisky review: Exploring Old Kempton

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On tasting: Old Kempton The Old Stables (Batch 2), Old Kempton Pinot Noir Cask, Old Kempton Port Cask, Old Kempton Single Malt Solera #2, Old Kempton ‘Special Release’ Shiraz Cask, and Old Kempton Cask Strength Sherry Cask

It was a warm, sunny weekend in 2013 when I first visited Redlands Distillery. Redlands Distillery? That’s right, what you know as Old Kempton today started life as the Redlands Distillery back in 2012.

The distillery was situated within the historic, and stunning, Redlands Estate in the Derwent Valley, which was purchased in 2008 by agricultural consultant Peter Hope and his wife Elizabeth.

The Hope’s set about preserving and restoring the near 200 year old estate that once grew everything from barley, hemp, tobacco and hops. Bill and Lyn Lark then jumped on board as investors and consultants, seeing huge potential for whisky making at the site.

 

Redlands Estate Distillery – Oz Whisky Review

The vision was to create a truly paddock to bottle single malt whisky – a Tasmanian version of Kilchoman.

Tasmania’s other field to bottle producer, Belgrove, had shown it could be done, and continues to push the boundaries of the concept even today.

But right from the start, things didn’t go to plan at Redlands.

Despite the best efforts of head distiller Dean Jackson and later Robbie and Emma Gilligan, harvests were poor, malting often failed, and it got harder and harder each season to continue.

The estate was sold in 2016 to Casella Family Brands, the distillery moved to Dysart House 45 minutes north east, and the Old Kempton Distillery was born.

 

Old Kempton Distillery, Dysart House

Since then, whisky produced at the Redlands and Dysart sites has been matured in a wide range of casks, predominately ex-wine, and the Old Kempton single malt range now stretches to almost a dozen current and special release bottlings available at any one time.

During Dark Mofo in 2019, I stopped in at the new ‘Old’ Kempton site after visiting Lawrenny Estate – Tassie’s next paddock to bottle distillery.

The field to bottle idea is still on the cards at Old Kempton, with a new distillery site being constructed and barley grown in adjacent fields. Although this time, the concept hasn’t been committed to the core range, a wise move.

The quality of the spirit has never been in doubt – it’s always had good bones. But the lack of consistency, the RRP, and other available options within the same bracket left me wanting more from this line-up.

Often I thought, would I have a second glass? Probably not. And would I be upset to be charged for some of these over the bar? Probably.

So I was a touch hard on the allocation of points here, because maturation and cask selection at Old Kempton can be a little erratic, as you’ll see below.

That said, like many, I’m keen to see how this complicated Tassie tale progresses.

  • Old Kempton Single Malt The Old Stables (Batch 2)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 40.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Old Kempton Distillery (presumably the Dysart site? Be great to get more info on when and where on the label). The Old Stables is a marriage of whisky matured in two casks: a 100 litre ex-apera cask and 100 litre ex-pinot noir cask. Bottled January 2021.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 69
    Nose
    Honey, menthol, butterscotch and floorboards.
    Palate
    Youthful spirit upfront that's not well integrated. Oak, spirit, fruit, blank - texturally it changes on the palate in that order.
    Finish
    Lick of oak and orange zest, peach, waxy pears and cocoa.
    Comments
    I know this is intended to be a more affordable entry to the Old Kempton range, but it's young and sharp and spirit and cask haven't fully come together. It feels unfinished, and doesn't showcase the potential of the OKD spirit and the quality of the casks. More time and better integration and aging would give the fruit profile and mouthfeel a big lift.
  • Old Kempton Single Malt Small Cask Matured Pinot Noir
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Old Kempton Distillery and matured in a Tasmanian pinot noir cask. Bottled October 2019.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 79
    Nose
    Wine is prominent, then barley sugars, lollies, cocoa and raisins. Boysenberry ice cream.
    Palate
    Wonderful structure and delivery from the spirit upfront. Soft butterscotch and raisins again as the sweetness in the malt opens up. Slightly acidic influence from the pinot as it progresses.
    Finish
    Wisp of smoke and vanilla, but some wobbly tannin and acid notes from the cask here as the spirit fades.
    Comments
    The structure of this just holds together. Some nice moments, but dissipates on the back end.
  • Old Kempton Single Malt Small Cask Matured Port
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Old Kempton Distillery and matured in ex-tawny casks. Bottled January 2020.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    Rhubarb and apple pie, roasted almonds, sweet malt and some rich, creamy undertones.
    Palate
    Spiced poached quince, orange zest, and then a big hit of spirit over oak tannins. Pulls up a bit spirity and short.
    Finish
    Warming and spicy.
    Comments
    I liked the way this was progressing, but that spirit heat interrupted the journey.
  • Old Kempton Single Malt Solera #2
    The Stats
    • ABV: 49%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: The Old Kempton 'Solera' takes whisky from numerous small casks and fills them into a 500 litre port puncheon. Half of the contents of the puncheon is decanted for each batch, which is comprised of around 500-600 bottles. This second batch was bottled March 2021.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    All spice, cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. Toasted walnut shells, marzipan and orange Berrocca (random, I know, but it's there).
    Palate
    Very textural. Thick spirit weight, with marshmallow, orange, clingstone peaches, nut oil and buttery fruits.
    Finish
    Clean and lean here, and some hot spirit on the tail.
    Comments
    Pretty well integrated, luscious and rounded. It's promising, but bring on #3.
  • Old Kempton Single Malt 'Special Release' Shiraz Cask
    The Stats
    • ABV: 60%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Matured in a single ex-shiraz cask and bottled in November 2020 as a Christmas release. 170 bottles in total.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Black pepper, raspberries, meringue and more of that signature sweet malt. Cherry over ripe apricot.
    Palate
    Explosion of fruit, oak and fine tannin. Eton mess with raspberry coulis. Toasty and nutty, and the cask holds generously against the spirit.
    Finish
    Keep finding a stop sign on the finish of these.
    Comments
    Well-made, great barrel choice. Restrained but still generous.
  • Old Kempton Single Malt Cask Strength Sherry Cask
    The Stats
    • ABV: 60%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Old Kempton Distillery and matured in an ex-apera cask. Bottled 26th of April 2019.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 91
    Nose
    Sour cola, green apples, lemon zest and roasted walnuts.
    Palate
    Syrupy and nutty. White alpine strawberries, candied apricots, white pepper and gentle oak tannins. The grip from the cask is subtle here, and welcomed.
    Finish
    That’s got legs! Soft tannins, lingering warmth, but that sudden stop sign is still there.
    Comments
    Does not drink like 60%. The fruit profile pulls up a bit short, but otherwise, seamless.
Ev Liong
Ev Liong is one of Australia's most distinguished whisky and hospitality professionals. Over the last 16 years, she's been a venue manager, bartender and sommelier in some of the country's top bars and restaurants, including Whisky & Alement, Lee Ho Fook and Spice Temple, and designed numerous award-winning beverage programs and events. When not entertaining her two daughters, Ev now works as a spirits blender, consultant and spirits judge, and is more officially known as the 'Queen of the Dram'.