Whisky review: Native Grain Whiskey – from project to realisation

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On tasting: Native Grain Project, Native Grain ‘Whiskey’ (Wattleseed BQ-001), Native Grain Whiskey (Weeping Grass ADP7)

Sacha La Forgia’s native grain whiskies have certainly got a number of industry folks talking (and arguing). For me, that’s one of the brilliant results of this project – it gets people thinking about how whisky can, and should, be made (for the full picture, check out our detailed examination of the story here).

They also get us thinking about where whisky comes from. That this is an agricultural product that’s grown and harvested by people, and that the decisions made by producers and consumers have broader ramifications.

Yes, the price and scarcity of these whiskies is frustrating. But with the cost and availability of native ingredients fetching hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars per kilo, it’s an unavoidable reality.

Are we looking at a new style of Australian whisky? La Forgia tells us he’s laid down two dozen barrels with different native cereal grasses (wattleseed is now off the cards, which is a shame, cause it tastes bloody fantastic, as you’ll see below). I’ll be fascinated to see how these future releases are received, and if other distillers experiment with native cereal grasses.

If you do come across them, give them a try. The flavours are utterly unique but oddly familiar, particularly if you’ve tasted Australian nuts, herbs and spices before.

La Forgia will also be releasing a regular malt whisky in the next 12 months (you heard it here first), so keep an eye on this crazy distillery up in the hills.

  • Native Grain Project
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Malt and wattleseed spirit
    • Production Story: Starts with a mash of malted barley to which portions of roasted wattleseed are added. This was then distilled in a pot still at the University of Adelaide and matured for nine months in French oak cabernet franc barrels.
    • Location: Adelaide Hills, SA
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Fun. Coconut and choc chip biscuits. Definitely youthful and bright, and the new make character is on show. But there's plenty of funky, earthy spice.
    Palate
    Again, still spirity, it's not ready, but really shows off the interplay with malt and wattleseed - the two work so well together. Wine cask has already added some influence, and there's a mustiness from the French oak, too.
    Finish
    Great length, a bit raw, then coffee and chocolate scrolls.
    Comments
    Showed great promise even at this age. There'd be so many applications for this in cocktails, but too rare to mix!
  • Native Grain 'Whiskey' Wattleseed (BQ-001)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Erm, let's go with malt and wattleseed spirit.
    • Production Story: Exactly the same batch as the Native Grain Project, but here the spirit has been matured for over two years. 142 bottles total.
    • Location: Adelaide Hills, SA
    • Score: 88
    Nose
    Burnt toast, creme brulee and poppyseeds. Earthy, nutty, and plenty of chocolate, and then comes the fruity undercurrent of orange and peaches, and a hint of red wine funk.
    Palate
    So unique. Burnt toffee and dark chocolate, and then a prominent roasted nut character that's not quite chestnuts or cashews, it's... well, wattleseed. Great structure from the malt, and the wine cask adds texture and richness.
    Finish
    Medium to long, and an awesome Milo note at the end!
    Comments
    It's such a shame. This is beautiful stuff, and really well executed. The roasted nutty flavours actually work really well with the red wine casks. But this is likely to be the last we see of it.
  • Native Grain Whiskey Weeping Grass (ADP7)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Native grain whisky
    • Production Story: Starts with a mash of malted barley to which portions of ground weeping grass are added. This was then distilled in a pot still at Adelaide Hills Distillery and matured over two years in 120 litre French oak cabernet franc barrels. 150 bottles total.
    • Location: Adelaide Hills, SA
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    A little bit of youth and prickle. Butterscotch, caramel, apricots and pine, and a slightly meaty, salami character. Then cocoa, bush tomatoes, cumin and you get hints of wine and fruit emerge along with a weird earthiness from the weeping grass.
    Palate
    Again, just a bit youthful and hot. But the spirit drives down the palate with dried fruits, chocolate coated almonds and strawberry fondue. Mid to back palate is where the weeping grass announces itself, and it comes on with this utterly unique dark chocolate spice.
    Finish
    Lovely follow through. Surprisingly long, and boy the back end is something else, like rum balls coated in desert sand.
    Comments
    I love where this is going, but I'd like to see it with more time in oak to round off the edges, unveil more flavour, and let the cask have a bit more say (not often I'll say that about an Australian whisky). But the journey from spicy and nutty, through to that earthy, praline character is a trip. Unlike anything I've tried before.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.