Whisky review: Furneaux single malt whisky – Australia’s answer to Islay?

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On tasting: Furneaux Single Malt Whisky Cask No. 154-155, and two Furneaux single malt cask samples

Every second March, whisky fiends in Australia and New Zealand are thrown into a frenzy by DramFest, the Southern Hemisphere’s most renowned whisky festival. It takes place in Christchurch every two years, and when it hits, the biggest names in whisky descend on the region (most stopping off in Sydney and Melbourne at some point), presenting their wares and inspecting the latest happenings on both sides of the ditch.

‘Innovation’ is often the hot word on everyone’s lips. But more and more, we keep hearing about regionality and ‘terroir’ – does whisky have the ability to capture the culture, landscape and unique qualities of its surrounding natural environment?

There’s a number of regions around Australia that would be perfect to test this idea. And when flying south to Tassie, I’ve often wondered about the largely unknown islands in Bass Strait – the perfect spot to open a distillery.

And now, Damien Newtown-Brown has done just that, with his recently constructed Furneaux Distillery on Flinders Island. Newtown-Brown has a long association with the island, and over the last couple of years, he’s been hard at work getting the spirit of the place into his whiskies.

 

Furneaux Distillery. Photo – Ness Vanderburgh

 

Like Islay, Flinders Island is blessed with an abundance of maritime peat, so Newtown-Brown’s been digging some up from his property and performing a post-malt peating, similar to the method used at Lark Distillery.

It’s created some intriguing coastal flavours, but at the moment, it’s important to note that all current bottled product was distilled at Launceston Distillery and wash is also fermented there as well. But considering what I’ve tasted so far, keep your eyes out for the next peated whisky release due in July.

  • Furneaux Single Malt Whisky Cask No. 154-155
    The Stats
    • ABV: 45%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery and matured in 20 litre tawny casks for 28 months, 14 of those on Flinders Island.
    • Location: Flinders Island, TAS
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    Mint and pine needles to start, then dark sugars and a herbal sweet-vermouth note.
    Palate
    Plum jam, dry spices and cedar. A little on the sharp side, but a carefully managed level of oak influence balances a youthful and feisty spirit.
    Finish
    Oak and tawny intermingle across a hint of spirit.
    Comments
    I like where this is going, and it was a great decision to get this out of oak to rest in stainless for a month or two (similar to the Heartwood method). For those interested, this is the bottling that's currently available.
  • Furneaux Distillery Single Malt Whisky No. 001-002 (Sample)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 45%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery and matured in 20 litre apera casks for 28 months, 14 of those on Flinders Island.
    • Location: Flinders Island, TAS
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Soft upfront, then sultanas, zingy orange and chewy caramels, but the apera influence is kept in check here.
    Palate
    The malt is really driving the sweetness here. Pink flowers and starburst chews, and quite mellow compared to the tawny, with a rounded syrupy texture.
    Finish
    Sweet dried fruits and sultana bran.
    Comments
    Much more together and mature. Shows real care in distillation and cask treatment.
  • Furneaux Single Malt Cask No. 14 (Sample)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 64.6%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery from malt smoked with Flinders Island peat. Matured in an apera cask for 21 months, mostly on Flinders Island.
    • Location: Flinders Island, TAS
    • Score: 89
    Nose
    Initially, heavy apera, and then a tariness on the second approach. Similar peatiness to an old Bowmore, with petrichor (rain on rocks and earth) and jam on damper.
    Palate
    Sticky BBQ ribs, delicious richness and then the earthy smoke – like stepping into a leather worker's shop. Treacle, sherry and wet leather boots next to the fire… a peat fire!
    Finish
    The peat contends with the cask influence, but keeps balanced right across the finish. Not super long, but begs you to come back for more. I found myself slurping at an empty glass.
    Comments
    If this peatiness can be enhanced further in future bottlings then there is a very bright future for Furneaux and whisky-making on the island. It's got just enough to set it apart from an Islay malt or an Aussie peated dram made from Scottish peated barley, but still plenty of familiar reference points to draw you in. Introducing new flavours is like building a bridge: you have to start on both sides of the strait and meet in the middle.
Julian White
Julian White is the co-owner of Melbourne’s Whisky & Alement and the driving force behind its importing arm the Independent Whisky Company. When he’s not scouring the planet for old and obscure bottlings, and creating daring whisky and beer projects for Australia’s curious drinkers, he’s a panel chair at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards and a presenter, whisky educator and consultant.