Review: Tasmanian whisky touring – new finds and second looks

featured image
On tasting: Hunnington Sherry Cask No. 13, Old Kempton The Old Stables Batch 3, Old Kempton Solera Batch 3, Lawrenny Cellar Collection Sherry Cask (Cask 79), Hellyers Road Sherry Cask 7 Year Old, Spirit Thief American Oak Cabernet and Bourbon, Killara Shiraz Cask (KD056), Killara Muscat Cask (KD051) and Spring Bay Virgin Oak Cask

After a recent trip to Tassie, I’ve been writing about the evolution of the whisky scene down there and all that’s new and emerging. But one thing I haven’t touched on yet is just how many Tasmanian whiskies are now available for us to try (there’s freaking heaps).

Throughout the pandemic, restrictions meant that accessing whisky from some Tasmanian producers was tricky. Mostly, it was simple enough to place your order online from established distilleries and wait for the postie to drop off the goods.

But if you were keen on getting a taste of some of the newer or smaller Tasmanian producers, that was more difficult. Especially if, as I’ve found out, a lot of those producers predominately sell whisky to visitors through their cellar door or to nearby retailers and bars.

Maybe Tasmania’s wine industry has a point to offer here. I’ve long paid close attention to the Tassie wine industry, mainly because their wines are bloody fantastic, but also because you occasionally see symmetries between how the whisky and wine sectors operate. And one Tasmanian wine stat has always stayed with me: around 40% of Tasmanian wine is sold in Tasmania, with 55% going to the mainland and around 5% heading overseas to the export market. Basically, a lot of Tassie wine never makes it out of Tasmania.

Should we expect the same sales trajectory for Tasmanian whisky? I’m thinking not. Finding any sales data on Australian whisky is near impossible, but anecdotally, the export market has always been stronger for Tasmanian whisky brands, especially the early leaders like Hellyers Road and Sullivans Cove. And with Lark now determined to export, you’d expect that Tasmanian whisky’s future will ride on selling whisky beyond the Apple Isle.

And yet, I’m now coming across a growing number of small Tassie whisky makers who appear to be heading the other way and keeping things hyper local. Close to half of the whiskies below would be difficult to get a taste of without visiting Tasmania, so how things progress from here I guess we’ll see.

You get a sense of what I’m talking about with this round-up: cellar door exclusives, hard to come by bottlings and a few recent batches of core range whiskies I was keen to revisit.

It’s our first look at the triple distilled whisky from Hunnington Distillery, my first taste of a Tasmanian whisky in a new oak cask (Spring Bay Virgin Oak), and my first official crack at a Lawrenny single cask bottling (they’re almost exclusively sold through the cellar door).

Back to the initial point, this is just a snippet of the new Tassie whiskies now on offer, so we’ve got more reviews coming soon.

  • Hunnington Sherry Cask No. 13 Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Triple distilled 28 August 2019 at Hunnington Distillery through a 380 litre pot column still and matured in a small sherry cask. Bottled 1 December 2021. 87 bottles in total.
    • Location: Kettering, TAS
    • Score: 83
    Nose
    Some heat and prickle at first, then wafer and a pleasant treacle note. Certainly softer than many of its double distilled Tassie counterparts, but this cask is working wonders - lots of brown sugar and toffee, and some interesting flashes of malt from the spirit.
    Palate
    Light to medium bodied, with lots of creamy sherry and caramel. The cask starts to grip as it progresses and things get a little wood-driven. But the sherry wins out and the spirit hold its own.
    Finish
    Fades a little, but still enough creamy complexity to keep you interested.
    Comments
    It's nice to finally get acquainted with Tassie’s latest triple distilled malt. There's enough texture and malty goodness here, and the cask selection complements the spirit well. Worth a look if you come across one, but there's only a very limited supply of Hunnington whiskies.
  • OLD KEMPTON THE OLD STABLES Single Malt Whisky (BATCH 3)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 40.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Old Kempton Distillery. The Old Stables bottling is normally a marriage of two casks, often ex-fortified or table wine. Bottled August 2021.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    Brown sugar and an earthy cereal maltiness. Corn flakes and salted caramel. Surprisingly herbal and savoury as it opens, with white pepper, lavender and brown bread.
    Palate
    That malty brown sugar note from the nose is here, too. Quite chewy and dense despite the abv, with green apple and wheat-bran cereal.
    Finish
    Pulls up a little here, but that sweet cereal hangs on and does enough.
    Comments
    A malt and cereal forward Old Kempton, which is unexpected if I'm honest, but fantastic to see. Cask influence has been really well managed here, allowing the malt character to shine. I actually quite like the abv as well (maybe I'm getting old) - it's just rounded out and softened the whole. Recalls some malty, chewy Highland malts (think Deanston or Blair Athol).
  • OLD KEMPTON SOLERA Single Malt Whisky (Batch 3)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 49%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: The Old Kempton 'Solera' takes whisky from numerous small casks and fills them into a 500 litre port puncheon. Half of the contents of the puncheon is decanted for each batch, which is comprised of around 500-600 bottles.
    • Location: Kempton, TAS
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Juicy. Figs, toffee and some dark, herbal sticky notes. While it's plenty rich, you pick up some drier, wine-laden oak notes as well, with cherry ripe, raspberry coulis and tiramisu.
    Palate
    Ooff, dark, rich and brooding. More lush and sticky even than the nose suggests. Some lovely moments as the various wine cask components intermingle with dark chocolate, nutmeg and cloves. A few points where it's just a bit astringent and hot, but you can sense that softening with each batch.
    Finish
    Long and chocolatey. Strong milk coffee and jam tart.
    Comments
    Really enjoyable if the style's to your liking. It's got a gooey, complex heart of darkness that keeps revealing itself, but it's still very dense and concentrated. I added some water and found it really opened up the intensity of flavour if you're playing along at home.
  • Lawrenny Cellar Collection Sherry Cask Single Malt Whisky (Cask 79)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 44%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Lawrenny Estate Distilling and matured in a 100 litre ex-sherry cask. Bottled early 2022. Just over 100 bottles in total.
    • Location: Ouse, TAS
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Dried fruit, leather and boisterous sherry. Flashes of the malt underneath raspberry jam and wood shavings.
    Palate
    Tart. Plenty of spice, fruit cake and toffee, but it's certainly more wood forward than the inaugural Lawrenny Ascension release. Quality timber, but I wish it would quieten down and let us hear more from the spirit.
    Finish
    Raisins and cherry ripe, but getting a little dry.
    Comments
    There's plenty of quality to be found in the Lawrenny whisky program, but this one was a bit too cask driven for me. I've tasted quite a few of these hard to come by Lawrenny single casks, and head distiller and blender Joe Dinsmoor has always done a great job to even out the pointy bits with the larger batched Lawrenny releases. For a taste of what I'm talking about, look out for the Lawrenny Decension scheduled for release soon.
  • Hellyers Road Sherry Cask Single Malt Whisky 7 Year Old
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Hellyers Road Distillery and matured in Spanish oloroso sherry casks for seven years. Bottled 13 October 2021.
    • Location: Burnie, TAS
    • Score: 83
    Nose
    Straight up, the Hellyers nutty funk - charcoal, praline and almond flakes. Some prickle and heat, then strawberries, lime marmalade and a slightly mineral, saline quality.
    Palate
    Refined, nutty and dry. Nothing juicy here, straight away you get dense, tight tannins. Marmalade, fig jam, orange oil and brulee. Surprisingly earthy as it moves along, but lots of layers.
    Finish
    Warming. Nice carry through.
    Comments
    An interesting one. A more old-school maturation style to what Hellyers normally release with wine cask finishes and the like. But it's well integrated, and less juicy and cask forward than expected.
  • Spirit Thief American Oak Cabernet and Bourbon Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 48.3%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by the Spirit Thief team at White Label Distillery. Matured in 30% American oak ex-Bourbon casks and 70% American oak cabernet casks from South Australia’s Clare Valley wine region. Bottled 2022.
    • Location: Hobart, TAS
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Vibrant. Unripe green fruits, big vanilla, and a touch of spearmint. Not the most expressive nose. Dig around and you can find some red berries, baked custard, coconut and lemon.
    Palate
    Really well integrated. Creamy vanilla and sorbet on the mid-palate from the American oak. The cabernet influence plays second fiddle, which is intriguing considering the larger maturation percentage.
    Finish
    Shortbread and lemon pith, and that fresh, slightly youthful spirit character lingers.
    Comments
    I like this turning to the spirit that you see in recent Spirit Thief bottlings. Given the Spirit Thief program, you're expecting the wine cask influence to come on thick and heavy, but there's none of that here. This is spirit forward with an accent of cabernet, and while it's tasty and well put together, it maybe needs another dimension or a bit more time in cask to really hit its straps.
  • Killara Muscat Cask Single Malt Whisky (KD051)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 60.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Kristy Booth-Lark at Killara and matured in a 100 litre muscat cask. Bottled 20 January 2022. 130 bottles in total.
    • Location: Richmond, TAS
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Some dank, juicy muscat upfront. Raisins, English breakfast tea, orange blossom and Rolo chocolate.
    Palate
    Treacle, burnt butter and honey ice cream. Nicely balanced, the muscat influence never becomes cloying, although a touch of water brought out more malt and cereal.
    Finish
    Hints of youth here, but that creamy, honey character keeps on keeping on.
    Comments
    Get on board if you're a muscat fan. This has an earthy, sweet perfume to it that's pretty damn delish.
  • Killara Shiraz Cask Single Malt Whisky (KD056)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 61%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Killara and matured in 100 litre shiraz cask. Bottled 4 March 2022. 101 bottles in total.
    • Location: Richmond, TAS
    • Score: 91
    Nose
    Glazed cherries and burnt caramel. Roasted malt and plum jam. Great interplay between the malt and the wine. The malt is definitely winning, though.
    Palate
    Hugely rich and thick. Nougat and strawberries and cream. The Killara burnt toffee character melds deliciously with the shiraz here. I probably should've added water but was enjoying it too much as is.
    Finish
    Builds and builds, gooey caramel and plum pudding.
    Comments
    I've heard a lot of praise for this whisky, even from certain Tassie distillers who aren't partial to wine cask maturation. Taste this and you can understand why. It's a beast. Hugely complex and rich, and the shiraz influence has been so well managed - at no point does it interfere. The structure and weight of the malt is where it really elevates itself. The malt leads and the shiraz influence bows down to its treacly goodness. Excellent stuff.
  • Spring Bay Virgin Oak Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 58%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Spring Bay Distillery and matured in a virgin American oak cask for two years.
    • Location: Cambridge/Spring Bay, TAS
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Coconut butter, brioche and lots of vanilla. Geez it's spritely, not necessarily prickly, just lots of dense oak. Shortbread fresh from the oven. Toasted white bread.
    Palate
    Phoah, big and dense. The expected walloping of oak, although it's a bit drier than expected and gets a little earthy and furry. Better with water, brings out the Spring Bay spirit, which is struggling to get a word in.
    Finish
    Clears out the sinuses! This really takes off. More fruity and salty with water.
    Comments
    Cool experiment. It's maybe a little one dimensional, as the oak really takes the reins here. It's a fun ride though.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.