After two years away from Australia’s whisky isle, I finally returned to Tassie last week to visit distilleries, catch up with old friends, and hit some bars. I also tasted lots of new whiskies (reviews are coming).
Six months in the Tasmanian distilling scene is a long time, so there was a huge amount to catch up on. Here’s the latest.
-
How many distilleries are making whisky in Tassie now?
Estimates vary depending on who you’re talking to. But by my count, over 30 Tasmanian distilleries have now released their own whisky to market, while most industry folks said there were between 50 and 80 distilleries in Tasmania either making whisky or just getting started. There are now so many distilleries on the island that you have to make some tough decisions about which ones you’ll visit and which ones you won’t, which was new for me.
The vast majority of Tasmanian distilleries and whisky businesses weathered the pandemic shutdowns. Like everywhere, a number of hospitality businesses have closed, but a lot of distillery cellar doors pulled through with the support of locals and are now ready and eager to welcome visitors from Australia and abroad, so consider yourself invited.
‘M.P’ Mariposa casks maturing at Lawrenny Estate Distilling
-
Cask shortages
Over the last five or six years, cask supply and the increasing cost of Australian fortified wine casks has made Tasmanian whisky businesses nervous. Some of those nerves have been spiked by a few larger distilleries buying up shipping containers of casks and stockpiling them to ensure consistency of supply moving forward.
But new cooperages are continuing to materialise. Transwood Cooperage have done an excellent job, and everyone I talked to in the Tassie industry has been impressed by the quality of their work.
Meanwhile, Tasmanian Cask Company (Master Cask) is continuing to grow and evolve, and I tasted whisky for the first time matured in casks that had undergone their patented ‘Mariposa’ treatment, which drastically reduces the seasoning time of fortified wine casks (photo above). Very interesting stuff, keen to try more.
-
Callington Mill Distillery is pretty epic
I was very lucky to get a detailed tour of the new Callington Mill Distillery site and can tell you now, it’s one to watch. There’s a lot to unpack with everything they’re trying to achieve, but I’ll have a detailed feature article on the site coming soon.
4. Western Tiers Distillery / Stillsmiths
I popped into Western Tiers Distillery in Westbury in the state’s north and was lucky to meet Tim Freeman, one of the directors. Interestingly, Western Tiers is a prototype showcase distillery for prospective distillers to inspect the work of Stillsmiths, the still making business created in 2017 by Kolmark engineering. They’ve already completed some big distilling projects – they’re responsible for Callington Mill Distillery and the new Adams Distillery upgrade, for instance.
Tim told me they have an even larger list of clients on the mainland, and they’ve also delivered distillery builds and equipment to producers in New Zealand and South East Asia. On top of all that, they’re also producing and bottling their own range of spirits at Western Tiers – their triple distilled malt distillate is bloody delicious. Different, right? We’ll have more on the Western Tiers/Stillsmiths story soon.
-
Compliance
Following the Adams Distillery fire, a number of distilleries have had to make improvements and upgrades to their sites to ensure they meet more stringent regulations. Some of these upgrades cost big dollars, which will likely increase start up costs and act as a barrier to entry for newcomers in future. In fact, I’ve never heard Tasmanian distillers talk so much about compliance and hazard reduction, which is great.
A standards code is also being developed by the Tasmanian Whisky and Spirits Producers Association, which brings us to the next point.
Progress at Adams Distillery, hoping to open by the end of the year.
-
Tasmanian whisky regulations
Further to the standards code, the industry is also trying to push forward with developing stronger regulations around how Tasmanian whisky is bottled and labelled. There are a number of sticking points, one of the most divisive being whether or not it should be mandated that Tasmanian whisky be bottled in Tasmania. It was all still up for debate while I was there, so let’s see how it all progresses.
-
Tasmanian Whisky Week 2022
If everything remains manageable with COVID-19, then Tasmanian Whisky Week 2022 will go full steam ahead this year. Expect a huge number of events and a stack of new whisky releases. One to pencil in.
-
New distillery openings
The aforementioned Callington Mill Distillery opening will be one of the biggest in Tassie this year. But Lark Distilling is also set to relocate to the former Shene Distillery site in coming months. It will be fascinating to see how the new site is integrated into the Lark story.
I also had a sneak peak at the new Sullivans Cove Distillery site in Huon Quays and that promises to become one of the ultimate Tasmanian whisky experiences.
And Robbie and Emma Gilligan are close to opening their new Derwent Distillery very soon. It’s located in a stunning spot and will be worth a look.
9. Tasmanian single pot still whisky
I had a great time sitting down with Damian and Madeleine Mackey to chat about their new single pot still whisky project, which I’ll have more to say on soon (tastes damn cool). As far as I’m aware, only the Mackey’s in Hobart and Tara Distillery on the New South Wales south coast are producing their take on this uniquely Irish style of whiskey in Australia. As a huge single pot still fan, I’m super excited to see how it progresses.
10. Rum with it
The other thing I kept hearing was a number of distilleries who have either started making or are interested in making rum. The Lark’s were obviously producing and releasing rum a while back, and the New Norfolk Distillery are focusing specifically on rum as well (and worth a look).
But now, McHenry Distillery near Port Arthur are looking to produce rum, the Turner Still House will make rum alongside their whiskies and other spirits, and I’ve heard rumours there might be more to come, so plenty to look forward to if you’re a rum fan.
A big thanks to all the Tasmanians who lent me their time and their stories, and stay tuned for more Tasmanian whisky yarns coming soon.