Whisky review: First release malts from country to coast

Luke McCarthy -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: Headlands Distilling Co. Apera Cask, Headlands Distilling Co. Muscat Cask, The Aisling Single Malt Whisky Tawny Series 1 and Apera Series 2

There’s a lot made of how location affects the flavour of a single malt whisky. They’re fun discussions, even if they can sometimes get a bit abstract, leading to some curious ideas about what’s actually going on in your glass.

In terms of locations, well, you’d be hard pressed to find two more opposite places to make whisky than Griffith and Wollongong.

The Aisling Distillery, based in Griffith, is the passion project of Mark and Michelle Burns, and these first release whiskies have been a long time in the making. While numerous other Australian distilleries have released whisky to market using a Burns Welding and Fabrication pot still, Mark and Michelle have held back their whisky until they felt it was just right.

While in Wollongong, a growing port city an hour and a half south of Sydney on the NSW coast, The Headlands Distilling Co. team have devised a unique approach to create their take on Australian single malt.

The barley used by both distilleries is grown in a similar region, the casks employed have also received similar treatment, the whiskies were matured for similar periods, and yet they couldn’t be more different. Goes to show, the decisions made on the distillery floor are still fundamental to how a whisky tastes.

Still, it’s fascinating to see Australian whiskies emerging from locations that are so disparate.

  • Headlands Distilling Co. Apera Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled in 2016 at Headlands Distilling Co. from a mash of NSW barley. The initial run is performed through a stripping column and the second distillation through a pot still. Initially matured in ex-Bourbon barrels from Four Roses before being finished in casks that previously contained Seppelstfield Rich Rare Apera. Bottled November 2020. Around 500 bottles in total.
    • Location: Wollongong
    • Score: 75
    Nose
    A little odd on the nose. Banana, bread dough, and slightly smoky and meaty, almost mescuite smoke. With time, brown sugar, pears and tropical fruits that are about to turn.
    Palate
    Better here. Big sweetness from the apera, but still a little hot and prickly. Showing some youth, but time and the addition of water unveils smoked almonds, sea salt, mandarin peels and Light & Tangy chips.
    Finish
    Spirit still poking through here, with some spice rack and cinnamon from the cask.
    Comments
    Quite thin and hot, and the malt character has been really stripped out of the spirit, which seems to be causing some issues for the overall structure of the whisky. I do like the cask selection, though, so maybe more time will help to better integrate the whole. Price is also to be commended.
  • Headlands Distilling Co. Muscat Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled in 2016 at Headlands Distilling Co. This expression was initially matured in ex-Bourbon barrels and then finished in casks that previously contained Seppeltsfield Grand Muscat. Bottled November 2020. Around 500 bottles in total.
    • Location: Wollongong, NSW
    • Score: 76
    Nose
    More influence from the cask here. Figs, raisins and cinnamon, and some wonderful Aussie muscat notes on show. And that slight meaty, smoky, almost old clothes character again.
    Palate
    Sticky pudding and gooey caramel over spirit heat. The cask has layered in some butterscotch and raisins, and there's an interesting saline note, too - awesome if that's from the coastal maturation. But overall, still a bit thin and unbalanced.
    Finish
    Apricot jam, stewed fruit and spirit.
    Comments
    Again, great cask. The muscat influence has added some delicious flavours, but the spirit’s not quite there for me.
  • The Aisling Single Malt Whisky Tawny Series 1
    The Stats
    • ABV: 49%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at The Aisling Distillery in June 2016 from NSW barley through a Burns Welding copper pot still (one of the first Mark Burns made). This first release is a marriage of seven 100 litre tawny casks. Bottled November 2020. 650 bottles in total.
    • Location: Griffith, NSW
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Black forest cake and red roses. Some spirit buzz, but then all the lovely stuff: rocky road, cherry tart and apricot brandy. A nutty, sort of nougat note emerges, too (a distillery trait?) and a hint of celery.
    Palate
    Oily and lots of pleasant tawny, although it's not dripping with the stuff as with some Aussie malts. Spirit is light to medium bodied, and this really opens up, particularly with a drop of water, to bring on caramel, dark chocolate and orange rind. The cask adds spicy oak, cloves and sweet vermouth, but everything remains poised.
    Finish
    Twangs of tawny and mince pie.
    Comments
    I often favour apera over tawny, but this is a real treat, and the wine and oak have been given the right amount of time to come to terms. Well integrated, luscious and full of promise.
  • The Aisling Single Malt Whisky Apera Series 1
    The Stats
    • ABV: 51%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at The Aisling Distillery in June 2016. This release is a marriage of seven 100 litre apera casks. Bottled November 2020. 450 bottles in total.
    • Location: Griffith, NSW
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    Marmalade, black bread and lots of dried fruit - apricot and figs. Caramel, biscotti and an interesting malt note, almost towards something roasted. Plenty of apera here, too, not the rich, winey kind, but more spice, cloves and fruitcake. With time, almonds and amontillado.
    Palate
    Spicy upfront, with some heat and prickle from the spirit. That dark bread, marmalade note becomes fleshy and chewy here, and the nutty fortified character keeps building. The cask starts to take things maybe a bit too much to the clovey, slightly bitter end of the spectrum.
    Finish
    Nutmeg, fruitcake and good length.
    Comments
    There's some wonderful moments here, particularly as these cracking casks play with the spirit. I did find the spicy dryness of the apera starts to dominate the more this opens up, but The Aisling spirit is a compelling thing and it's been matched up with some high quality oak. On the way to a complex experience with more time and balance.
How We Score
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.