Review: A fresh batch of fortified and wine cask malts

Ev Liong -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: Hobart Whisky Pedro Ximénez Solera, Coastal Stone Nor’easter, Morris Whisky Sherry Cask, Never Never Banded Blended Malt, Killara Port Cask KD26, Starward Vitalis and Iniquity Sticky Fingers

Big, bold and boisterous. That’s what comes to mind when thinking about wine cask Australian whiskies, especially fortifieds, and how they’ve fundamentally shaped whisky making here over the last two decades.

But now, we’re starting to see some evolution, where cask-dominant whiskies are being joined by newcomers that allow the malt to shine through.

It’s clear from the whiskies reviewed below that the spirit being produced here is also becoming better tailored to local wine casks and our climatic conditions. But as the availability and price of these casks changes and inflates, how Australian distillers design and mature whisky in the next decade will be one to watch.

This bracket took me on so many different flavour journeys. Often, I was expecting one thing only to discover something else entirely. Wine casks throw up all sorts of variables, and I think we’re still learning about how best to use both them and the expertise of the winemakers who originally put them to work.

Will this become the dominant style in Australia as the industry doubles and triples in production over the next decade or two? Or will we see more ex-Bourbon cask matured Australian whisky creep in, considering the easy availability and certainty about how they perform?

Either way, there’s a huge variety of flavours and styles now being produced here with the casks that we have at our disposal. And if the whiskies below are an indicator, we’ve got an interesting few years ahead.

  • Hobart Whisky Pedro Ximénez Solera Single Malt Whisky (Batch No: 002/22)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.1%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Hobart Whisky and initially matured in 40, 80 and 100 litre ex-Bourbon casks for around three years. Progressively, whisky from these casks has been moved through five Spanish PX casks. Each batch is then bottled from the final cask in the chain (or solera). Reviewed here is the second batch following the inaugural release in May 2022.
    • Location: Hobart, TAS
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    Raisins initially, and surprisingly malt and cereal forward. Hazelnut and orange peel whispering in the background, then hints of sherry funk.
    Palate
    It would have been hard to pick this as a PX cask. Some spirit heat on the initial pass, but then plenty of sweetness from the malt, with delicate milk chocolate rolling into allspice, cinnamon and dried ginger.
    Finish
    Finishes with powdery cocoa, vanilla and light baking spices from the oak. A slight sharpness at the tail.
    Comments
    Very interested to follow the journey of this solera. Certainly not as PX-forward as you might expect, and I found some youthful flashes in there. But I like how this has been designed. It's got a good base from the ex-Bourbon casks, and I reckon this will sing with complexity in future batches.
  • Coastal Stone Nor’easter Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Manly Spirits Co. and matured in large format (225-500 litre) Barossa ex-wine casks, Bourbon casks, and fortified wine casks. Released August 2022.
    • Location: Sydney, NSW
    • Score: 83
    Nose
    Gentle and restrained. Berries and pome fruit, generous vanilla and hints of eucalypt. The cask treatment is subtle, and gives off gardenia perfume and Chinese five spice as it comes together with the malt.
    Palate
    Gentle gentle. Malt sweetness chimes through with the oak following behind, bringing dark chocolate and the fruits from the nose. Slight hints of youth, but solid integration between spirit and cask.
    Finish
    Lacklustre here, falls a bit flat.
    Comments
    Subtle and well put together. Could maybe do with a bit more oomph and complexity, but no doubt that will develop with time. Refreshing price point, and fascinated to see how drinkers take to it.
  • Morris Whisky Sherry Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Morris and originally matured in STR ex-wine casks before being finished in casks that previously held Morris Mia Aged Amber Apera 10 Year Old. Released November 2022.
    • Location: Rutherglen, VIC
    • Score: 79
    Nose
    Sticky dates. Walnut skins, concentrated dried fruits and some youthful malt characters. Hint of sulphur leading to some savoury edges.
    Palate
    Rich, nutty and slightly meaty. There's a charred, almost smoky element coming through from the cask which distracts from the more pleasant fruit and malt flavours on the nose. The sweetness and spice come later, adding some balance to the heavier cask influence.
    Finish
    Finish is dry, with more of that ashy character coming through. You really taste the flavour profile of the Amber Apera as it progresses.
    Comments
    Not a traditional take on a sherry cask whisky, that's for sure. The Morris Mia Aged Amber Apera would sit somewhere between a fino and an amontillado, so this isn't your traditional Scottish 'oloroso' style sherry cask treatment. For me, the malt profile didn't quite carry against the cask influence, which is quite drying. The oak felt a little tired as well.
  • Never Never Banded Blended Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Blended malt whisky
    • Production Story: Created from six casks produced by two South Australian whisky distilleries (Fleurieu and McLaren Vale Distillery) that were originally filled in 2017. Whisky from these casks was then blended and further finished in a muscat cask. Released October 2022. 555 bottles in total.
    • Location: McLaren Vale, SA
    • Score: 85
    Nose
    Fresh wine flavours upfront - could be convinced this is a fortified! Golden raisins, pink flowers, raspberry and white chocolate. Waxed leather with time, and hints of soft peat.
    Palate
    Full flavoured. Baked spiced peaches and golden apples. Not a lot from the spirit as it moves through, and the oak influence starts to get a little dry and awkward.
    Finish
    Again, the oak takes over a bit too much here, although some there's lovely fresh wine flavours from the casks.
    Comments
    Despite a few moments where the casks grab a hold of it, this is a really nice drinking experience. Overall, the cask treatment has matched up well with the spirit, and although it might have done with a bit more age to iron out some kinks, it's pretty damn delicious.
  • Killara Port Cask KD26 Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 47%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by Kristy Booth-Lark at Killara and matured in a 100 litre ex-Port (tawny) cask. Bottled 23 September 2022. 169 bottles in total.
    • Location: Richmond, TAS
    • Score: 92
    Nose
    Intriguing nose, sweet malt backed by heady spice, sticky date and citrus zest.
    Palate
    Honey, caramel chews and a touch of lime splice. The perfume of the tawny glides along with the spirit, and there's a slightly nutty, peanut brittle character as the malt shines through.
    Finish
    Warming and long. Lovely roasted malt flavours and mild tannins.
    Comments
    Deliciously moorish. Love the old school Tasmanian vibes this one conjures up, reminiscent of the early Larks. Great cask, and ticks all the flavour boxes.
  • Starward Vitalis Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Starward's original Essendon site and the current Port Melbourne distillery. Hand selected parcels of red wine cask matured whisky were married with tawny, bourbon, apera (1st fill and 2nd fill) and rum barrels ranging between 4 and 10 years old. Bottled for the 15th anniversary of Starward and released October 2022.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 89
    Nose
    Bring out the big sweeties. Hits with a mixed bag of sticky toffee, candied pears, apricots, florentines and a noticeable dot of spicy ginger.
    Palate
    Waft of old school Starward banana and caramel. Then the distinctive Starward malt profile is played off against the various cask components, which you could pick out for days. Generous ABV helps to balance the huge cask influence on the palate.
    Finish
    Landing with with some grip and a slightly tart finish. Still plenty of malt carring through.
    Comments
    Textbook, and very Starward, very on brand. The fruity spirit profile and the innovative use of different wine casks are a Starward hallmark, and that's certainly on show here. It solidifies who and what Starward is, what they've achieved so far, and where they're looking to go in future.
  • Iniquity Anomaly Series Sticky Fingers Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Tin Shed Distilling Co. from a base of Coopers malt extract and then matured in an American oak ex-apera cask for four years. Released May 2022.
    • Location: Adelaide, SA
    • Score: 91
    Nose
    Woah, not sure about this one on the nose. Sticky it is… a tarry stickiness that sits over caramalised sugars and malt. With time, fruitcake and wood spice emerges from the apera.
    Palate
    Okay, now we're talking. Dark chocolate, dulce de leche, bright ripe nectarine and Christmas spice. Actually, this is bloody delicious.
    Finish
    Big malt finish, well balanced by some nuttiness in the malt and apera from the cask.
    Comments
    I'll admit, initially, the nose was weird. But the palate and the overall drinking journey turns into something pretty amazing. And how are we meant to classify this? The Scots would call this blasphemy, and this would break so many rules over there. But hey, this isn't Scotland. And let's hope people don't get any ideas about making whisky from all those Coopers Home Brew kits out there! Hilarious that this has turned out so well.
How We Score
Ev Liong
Ev Liong is one of Australia's most distinguished whisky and hospitality professionals. Over the last 16 years, she's been a venue manager, bartender and sommelier in some of the country's top bars and restaurants, including Whisky & Alement, Lee Ho Fook and Spice Temple, and designed numerous award-winning beverage programs and events. When not entertaining her two daughters, Ev now works as a spirits blender, consultant and spirits judge, and is more officially known as the 'Queen of the Dram'.