Whisky review: First release malts and the new wheaty

Luke McCarthy -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: Whipper Snapper Wheat Whiskey (Batch 1), Taylor & Smith Single Malt Whisky Sherry Cask, Lawrenny Ascension, Kinglake Distillery Single Malt Whisky (Sample)

For the first time I can remember, there are now so many new Aussie whiskies about that fans of the local stuff are having to make decisions about which ones to buy.

In the past, new Australian whisky releases, particularly first releases, would sell out almost instantly. But these days, with so much choice, enthusiasts are being more selective – they can’t buy up everything that’s released now (well, some can, and do).

It’s always a privilege to taste first release whiskies, especially in a flight. You get to compare and contrast different approaches and think about all the decisions, large and small, a distiller has made years before.

‘Relieved’ is the word I’ve heard a lot when talking to the numerous distillers who’ve released their inaugural whiskies this year.

In the case of Lawrenny, an enormous amount of work went into refining their first bottling. Tasting and sampling, re-racking and vatting. Is it ready? Does it need more time?

While the Whipper Snapper crew have long thought they were on to a winner with their wheat whisky (I think so, too). But they held it back and held it back to get it to a more optimal point. And it shows.

These aren’t easy decisions to make, with so much money tied up in each cask, especially if you’re a smaller producer.

But what’s becoming clearer, is that new Australian whisky makers are learning from those that came before them. The hit rate with new Australian whiskies is improving all the time, as you see here.

 

  • Whipper Snapper Wheat Whiskey (Batch 1)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 45%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Wheat whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Whipper Snapper Distillery through their pot-column from a mash of 100% hard red winter wheat. Matured for four years in a 200 litre virgin American oak barrel and bottled November 2020.
    • Location: Perth, WA
    • Score: 90
    Nose
    Vanilla, porridge and unleavened bread. Then the sweetness, cherries, cola, marzipan and golden syrup. Slightly floral, too, sort of a green grass note, I'd guess from the wheat.
    Palate
    A little short upfront, then it really drives through. Surprisingly thick and mouth coating, rich and chewy, with cinnamon, again the cherries and cola, and a lick of caramel. Oak influence is spot on.
    Finish
    Longer than you'd expect for a wheaty.
    Comments
    Seriously impressive, very moreish, and still has that Whipper Snapper signature to it - that grain forward chunkiness. Lovely texture and weight, surprising for a wheat whisky. Top quality spirit, top quality oak. Time. Patience. This is getting it done.
  • Taylor & Smith Single Malt Whisky Barrel 5 Sherry
    The Stats
    • ABV: 43%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Taylor & Smith Distilling Co. 18th of March 2018 through their self-built still from Tasmanian malted barley. Matured in a 20 litre ex-apera cask, barrel #5, and bottled October 2020.
    • Location: Hobart, TAS
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Youth upfront, but intriguing once that blows off. Sort of a caramel maltiness, then carrot cake, citrus and this floral, perfumey, sort of musk stick note. Roses, strawberry chocolates and just a hint of smoke.
    Palate
    Comes together here. Rich and malty. Hints of treacle and raspberries. Still youthful, but the tannin has been well managed, and the apera adds dried fruits and spice.
    Finish
    Cadbury Roses. Elegant.
    Comments
    Everything's in order here. The T&S spirit has some fun and intriguing notes to it - maybe that unique yeast profile coming through. Also not as laden with apera as some early release malts tend to be, which is welcome. Really like where this is going. A more floral, subtle malt from south Tassie, perhaps?
  • Lawrenny Tasmanian Single Malt Ascension
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.6%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Lawrenny Estate from Tasmanian malted barley. Initially matured in a range of 20 litre ex-Bourbon and tawny casks. Whisky from these casks was then transferred to larger 100 litre casks and then vatted together and finished in a Spanish pedro ximenex cask for a further seven months.
    • Location: Ouse, TAS
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    A little closed and prickly. Figs and marmalade, and some sweet woody notes - leather and cigar box. A bit tropical with time, sort of pineapple and stewed fruits. Otherwise, just a bit muted.
    Palate
    Different story here. Wow. Nutty, rich and syrupy. The sherry influence has added a creamy nougat character that you don't often get from apera and tawny.
    Finish
    All the dark chocolate and pedro.
    Comments
    The nose aside, which doesn't give you much, this is properly yum. You can absolutely taste all the work and effort that's gone into this first release. Even though all that oak has covered up the spirit, boy it's nuanced and dense and at no point does it become too sweet, tannic or winey. Delicious stuff, and still room for improvement. If you're a Glendronach fan, give this a whirl.
  • Kinglake Distillery Single Malt Whisky (Sample)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 63%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Kinglake Distillery through a Knapp Lewer pot still from a unique mash: 20 per cent Scottish peated malt, while the other 80 per cent is supplied by Voyager Craft Malt, and includes chocolate and other lightly roasted malts. Matured for just over two years in 50 litre re-coopered ex-Bourbon casks. This is a sample of the whisky destined for Kinglake's Pioneers Club.
    • Location: Kinglake, VIC
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Vanilla and caramel, and the peated malt makes its presence felt straight away. Super malty as it opens up, barley sugars, creme brulee, orange rind and very together at this higher ABV. Water reveals a funky earthy note - pretty smoky, actually - roasted cashews and lemon.
    Palate
    Big and oily (you can taste the wider, deeper cut in the spirit run) with more of that sugary barley coming through. Plenty of vanilla and dark chocolate, macadamia and pecan pie. With water, more sweet smoke and charred wood.
    Finish
    Huge malt drive, smoke and caramel lingering.
    Comments
    What a start. Great choice of cask - it gives you a clear taste of that rich and smoky malt profile. Properly oily and thick, too, and if this lands around the price quoted when it's released in January 2021 (around $95) - look out.
How We Score
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.