Review: Morris Smoked Sherry Barrel Single Malt Whisky

Luke McCarthy -
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Another brave new entrant into the smoked Australian whisky space.

We’ve been covering Australian whiskies in this fast-evolving style for a number of years, Jules most prominently. When reviewing the Morris Smoked Muscat, produced in the same fashion as this Smoked Sherry bottling, Jules pointed out that although the elements here are all familiar, encountering them in the one package makes for some pretty unique and challenging drinking. That’s the definitely the case here again.

By super heavy charring casks that previously held Morris Mia Aged Amber Apera – a wine I love, and which sits between a fino and amontillado sherry – the team have created a much drier and nuttier experience, altogether different from a peated sherry or port cask Scottish malt. (I’m fascinating to see how peated whisky fans take to this.)

It’s another bold release from a brand that has quickly developed a large following on the back of sharply-priced, well-balanced whiskies. Despite their immediate success, the Morris folks have still got an appetite for pushing boundaries and striving for distinctly Rutherglen-style whiskies. The more of that kind of thinking we see in Australian whisky, the better.

  • Morris Smoked Sherry Barrel Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 50%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Copper & Grain Distilling Co (Morris) and initially matured in STR ex-wine casks from wineries in the Barossa and Coonawarra. Finished in Morris Mia Aged Amber Apera casks that have undergone a heavy char method developed by Copper & Grain coopers. Released November 2023.
    • Location: Rutherglen, VIC
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Obvious wood smoke straight up. But, it's not herbal and earthy like a Scottish peated malt, or meaty and sweet like a number of American whiskies in this style. This is dry and zesty: charred pineapple, burnt apple pie crust and dry sherry deglazing on a pan. After several passes, barrel char and oxidised, nutty apera are front and centre.
    Palate
    Bigger here than the Morris Smoked Muscat release, and palpably drier. The smoke drives down the palate on the higher ABV, but the creamier, fruitier elements from the apera casks provide much needed balance. Rewards multiple passes. At points, you find juicy citrus and walnut flavours from the apera, in other moments, nutmeg, wood spice and campfire. Doesn't take well to a drop of water, though, gets a bit wobbly and disjointed.
    Finish
    Finishes dry and smoky, but there's still malt and fruit trailing through. Finely balanced.
    Comments
    Unlike any sherry cask whisky you've come across before, and as a uniquely Australian rendition of an old world style, this is a real achievement. It's a seriously adult whisky. Compared to the richer and stickier Morris Smoked Muscat, this is tightly balanced between something spry and nutty and something fresh out of a fire pit. And if you're not put off by the smoke, there's balance and finesse to be found here. It will definitely polarise, but absolutely worth trying.
How We Score
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.