Review: Launceston Distillery – lift off for Tasmania’s elegant northern malt

Luke McCarthy -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: Launceston Apera Cask Matured ‘The First Release’, Launceston Tawny Matured, Launceston Bourbon Matured Cask Strength and the new Launceston Peated Malt 

Launceston Distillery has been a welcome addition to the Tasmanian whisky scene. Founded in 2015 and bankrolled by a partnership between two architects and three chemists, the distillery is a labour of love for the team. It’s also quickly developed a devoted fan base and a unique identity of its own, separate to the picturesque rural idyll Tassie marketers love to brag about.

For Launceston’s whisky identity, Chris Condon, the distiller and co-owner, is the man most responsible. He’s one of the most well-liked and respected distillers in Tasmania, and brings a calm, meticulous approach to his task – no doubt influenced by his early years working in the pharmaceutical industry. Condon first entered the booze industry as a team leader at James Boag’s Brewery. He then became the first distiller at Nant, and you certainly feel that influence in some of the Launceston single malts that have appeared in the last two years.

Condon’s whisky has moved away from that heavy malt-driven style favoured by Australian producers who started up in the 90s and early 2000s. Launceston is more elegant and restrained. Similar to Nant, Launceston stills (Knapp Lewer-built) have bulbs at the base of the neck to aid reflux – it’s just one of the elements that has helped to create a cleaner, fruitier, more floral style.

 

Distiller Chris Condon and Angus – Oz Whisky Review

 

That’s also one of the team’s notable achievements. In the past, Tasmanian single malt was at risk of becoming a bit homogeneous, with very similar malt and yeast profiles, still shapes and maturation programs across the industry. Condon has, thankfully, steered his whisky in a different direction, aiming to produce a ‘gentle’, broadly accessible style: less Glenfarclas, Glendronach, Talisker, more Miltonduff, Linkwood, Glen Moray.

They’re a pleasure to drink, and I certainly think there’s some great years ahead as various projects come to fruition and the core range continues to evolve. I also can’t wait for the distillery bar at Hangar 17 to get off the ground. The thought of flying in and out of Launceston and popping in for a whisky at the distillery – a mere 10 minute walk from the terminal! – is more enticing than ever right now. Until then, we’ve got the whiskies to keep us going.

  • Launceston Distillery Apera Matured H17-01 'The First Release'
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery from unpeated Tasmanian malt and matured in small French oak apera casks. Bottled July 2018. 530 bottles in total.
    • Location: Launceston, TAS
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Very fragrant for an Australian malt - lavender and cut grass. Nice cereal and spice emerges, and then the hallmark pear note. Some kiwi fruit and a slight soapiness (reminiscent of Glenglassaugh), and then the apera influence adds fruitcake, macadamia and vanilla tea.
    Palate
    A slightly youthful prickle, and then funk and grip from the apera cask. Nice interplay between the floral aspects of the spirit and the spice and fruitcake from the apera, which brings on a dry, cinnamon note on the mid-palate. Overall, clean and well integrated.
    Finish
    Bit short on the back end, but that's partly the style.
    Comments
    Solid stuff. Well constructed and balanced, and I like that you get a good look at the spirit with the apera maturation - it doesn't dominate what is an intriguing new make profile. Recent batches of the apera have shown even more depth and complexity.
  • Launceston Distillery Tawny Matured H17-02
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery from unpeated Tasmanian malt and matured in small French oak tawny casks. Bottled July 2018. 590 bottles in total.
    • Location: Launceston, TAS
    • Score: 83
    Nose
    Much sweeter and more cask-forward than the apera. A little prickly and woody at first, then jam drops, raspberry, sweet vermouth (Dolin), and quite rosy and floral underneath the thick tawny character.
    Palate
    Again, a richer, more syrupy experience. Red grapes, caramel and the classic dried fruits, cloves and sultanas from the tawny, which has turned this into a much woodier, mouth-coating whisky.
    Finish
    Bit longer than the apera here, with plenty of wood and sweet spice.
    Comments
    Fascinating to try the apera and tawny next to each other. For me, everything about the tawny is more obvious: sweet, woody and spicy, whereas the apera's a bit more nuanced and adult. While there's some great flavours with the tawny, the Launceston spirit is really overtaken by the cask, but I think the balance has been better in recent batches.
  • Launceston Distillery Bourbon Cask Matured Cask Strength H17-08
    The Stats
    • ABV: 62%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery from unpeated Tasmanian malt. Matured in nine small American oak casks which were then married together. Bottled June 2019. 225 bottles in total.
    • Location: Launceston, TAS
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Bit hot and youthful upfront. Big pears and green apples, then a nice cereal and malt character and that slight hint of floral soap again. With water, a confectionery sweetness develops, with lemon slice and lifted fruits, and the American oak influence adds depth and structure.
    Palate
    Again, there's youth and heat. But with time and water, it gets fragrant and creamy - white chocolate - and that nice kiwi fruit and citrus character emerges. Fair amount of tannin on the mid-palate.
    Finish
    A little short, but oak and vanilla provide just enough carry.
    Comments
    There are good flavours here, and it opens up with the addition of a few drops of water. But I'd like to see this with a bit more time in oak, and I wonder if maturation in larger format, standard 200-220 litre Bourbon casks might allow this to breathe, mellow and develop more complexity.
  • Launceston Distillery Peated Malt H17-16
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Launceston Distillery from a mixed-mash of Tasmanian malted barley and peated Scottish malt. Matured in a combination of ex-Bourbon and tawny casks which were then married together and rested for a further five months before being bottled in May 2020. 650 bottles in total.
    • Location: Launceston, TAS
    • Score: 78
    Nose
    Cheezels and hot salami, ash, and then that hallmark fragrant floral note underneath the smoke. White pepper, white vinegar, a slight plasticene note and burnt sage and salted meat.
    Palate
    Better integrated on the palate. It gets more creamy and vanillin, and next to that classic floral, pear character, you get beef brisket, oregano and burnt wood from the peated malt.
    Finish
    Solid length, with a lingering earthy smoke.
    Comments
    You can really taste the idea and design behind this new peated release, but I don't think it's quite there yet. The peated component is a bit disjointed, particularity on the nose - it's better integrated on the palate. If you taste the most successful Speyside peated malts - Tomintoul, Benriach even Balvenie - which is the space this is playing in, they all maintain a rich, fruity sweetness to temper the grunge from the peated malt. Maybe that means a wider cut for the peated Launceston spirit or longer maturation in casks that will add more heft and richness, a la Laphroaig with their use of sweeter Maker's Mark barrels. Keen to see how this expression develops in future, because a delicate, floral peated malt is rare in Australia at the moment. Well done to the Launnie team for taking it on.
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Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.