Review: A mixed bag of Melbourne grain whiskies

Ev Liong -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: Bond 7 Australian Blended Whisky, Ancient Wisdom Single Barrel Whisky, Ned Whisky The Bravery, The Gospel Projects Ochota Barrels Gamay Cask, The Gospel Projects Wheated Rye, Boatrocker Coolship Rye 

Based in Melbourne, and being drip-fed an exit plan out of lockdown, I find myself planning picnics and thinking about how to make the most of our soon to be permitted four hour leisure sessions.

Now I’m dreaming of highballs, bottled cocktails, a mismatched spread of cold meats, cheeses, dips and whatever else I can throw in the picnic basket. I’m dreaming of a nip of something a little more special in a hip flask to share. I’m dreaming of sharing again.

Equally, the line-up of whiskies below is a strange assortment – a pot roast of random personalities. There’s light and fruity wheaters, dark and heavy ryes, and some oddballs in the corner you’re not quite sure about. They range from the good to the bad. Some leave you wanting more, others you’d like to see less of.

In some ways, this selection, all hailing from Melbourne, reflects the highs and lows of my year. One of our highest scoring whiskies of 2021 is here, and one of our lowest scoring whiskies ever also makes an appearance.

It was a challenging bracket, as the difference in calibre was so wide. But it reveals how good some Australian wheat and rye whiskies can get, while shining a light on some of the curious businesses looking to break into the Australian whisky space.

The price of some of these whiskies also rates a mention. At $39.99 (700ml), Bond 7 appears to be the cheapest Australian whisky on the market (now that’s a sharing price). It’s even bottled at a sessionable 37% ABV, a curio of Australian whisky laws.

I might even pop a bottle in the picnic basket. Everything tastes better when shared with your mates, right?

  • Bond 7 Australian Blended Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 37%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Blended whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled from a mash of wheat and malt and matured in a combination of ex-Bourbon and ex-Australian wine casks for a minimum 2.5 years.
    • Location: Victoria
    • Score: 79
    Nose
    Honey water, rosemary and thyme, violet crumble with sea salt. Light and spirity.
    Palate
    Actually not that bad. The spirit's a little hot and savoury, with a young new make sweetness. But there's also honey joys, cereal and leatherwood honey to balance the youthful spirit heat.
    Finish
    Like vodka, it's a clean cut.
    Comments
    For where it sits in terms of price and availability, I expected a lot worse. There's value here, and that new make sweetness is balanced by some cereal savoury notes which adds a dimension to a pretty basic whole.
  • Ancient Wisdom Single Barrel Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 40%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Wheat whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled in 2016 with a single shot through two continuous stills from a wheat malt mash. The spirit is then filtered through silver and activated carbon columns and matured in ex-shiraz casks. No bottling date provided. Barrel 211.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 59
    Nose
    There's a feinty character to the spirit and a wet cardboard edge, some odd high esters and Granny Smith apples.
    Palate
    Barley lollies, Froot Loops, orange zest and young green oak tannins. Very light, towards cane spirit.
    Finish
    Astringent like fresh bamboo.
    Comments
    What am I tasting? There's a surprising lack of any wood influence here, so it comes across youthful and underdeveloped. A more thoughtful handling of the spirit and better barrel selection and maturation would help to build some complexity and balance.
  • Ned Whisky The Bravery
    The Stats
    • ABV: 44%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Corn/wheat whisky
    • Production Story: Not exactly sure on the origins of the mash and spirit here. Either 100% wheat spirit produced by Ostra Distillers for Ned Whisky, or a corn/wheat mash (71% corn, 17% wheat and 12% barley) distilled at the Ned Whisky Distillery in Melbourne. The Bravery is the first bottling in Ned Whisky's The Wanted Series - a marriage of whisky from 200 litre American oak and 500 litre French oak barrels.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 76
    Nose
    Cereal, toffee, waxed apple skins and chalk… almost like a candle graveyard. Anticold vibes, juicy orchard fruits and tropical tones of banana and mango.
    Palate
    Spirit heat and spice. Black cardamom, all spice, young ginger and birds eye chili. Cinnamon and Big Red chewing gum from the American oak as it continues, and bursts of fruit behind the dry spirit.
    Finish
    Waxy. Waves of spice and pulsing heat as it finishes.
    Comments
    A bit disjointed, and too frequently interrupted by spirit heat. But perfect as a cocktail whisky: the heavy spice and sweetness would make a heady Old Fashioned or Boulevardier.
  • Boatrocker Coolship Rye
    The Stats
    • ABV: 47.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Rye spirit
    • Production Story: Distilled at Boatrocker Brewers and Distillers 19th of May 2020 from a mash of 100% Australian rye. Matured in virgin American oak casks and bottled 19th of March 2021. 307 bottles in total.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    Carrot juice and silky wax, nutmeg, kerosene, kampot pepper and ripe strawberry.
    Palate
    Musk and shooting spice heat. Maraschino cherry, currants, Ribena and pen ink. Nice spice, sweetness and balance between spirit and oak. Rounds out with juicy Amaretto.
    Finish
    Dried cranberries and petroleum, drying tannins and amaretti biscuits.
    Comments
    Lip smacking! I really enjoyed this. To think that it’s been pulled out at 10 months and it's already at this level. Keen to see this become whisky.
  • The Gospel Projects Wheated Rye
    The Stats
    • ABV: 48%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Rye whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled by The Gospel Distillers from a mash of 60% rye and 40% wheat malt and matured in a second fill American oak cask for just under three years. Bottled February 2021. 55 bottles in total.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 94
    Nose
    Farm yard funk, creamy sweetness, buttery custard tart with grated nutmeg and a slight floral soapiness. Top notes of white cherries and alpine strawberries.
    Palate
    Burst of flowers and wheat sweetness, frangipani, gummi bears, mild heat and lovely layered oak tannins.
    Finish
    Floral and fresh, sweet spices and sugar lollies.
    Comments
    Delightful. The wheat supports the back palate-rye and it's such a winning combo. Gives it great balance and weight and lifts fruit and floral notes out of the spirit. Pity there was so little of it. They're onto something here.
  • The Gospel Projects Ochota Barrels Gamay Cask
    The Stats
    • ABV: 50%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Rye whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled from a mash of 100% rye and initially matured in virgin American oak barrels, and then finished for nine months in casks that had previously held Ochota Barrels gamay. Bottled December 2020. 558 bottles in total.
    • Location: Melbourne, VIC
    • Score: 92
    Nose
    Red berries over raspberry and sour cream, hint of black pepper and sweet spices. Big nose when given time to reveal.
    Palate
    Power. The red wine influence is intertwined with the rye spice. Woody herbs, sarsaparilla, dried cranberries and acidic cherry. Spirit structure is strong and supports the tannin and acid of the wine cask.
    Finish
    Lick of heat with earthy pepper and violet. Warming and juicy.
    Comments
    Big whisky, so much going on. The cool silkiness of the wine finish perfectly complements the spicy rye (I hope there'll be more wine finishes). This was a delight to drink and such a great tribute to Taras Ochota.
How We Score
Ev Liong
Ev Liong is one of Australia's most distinguished whisky and hospitality professionals. Over the last 16 years, she's been a venue manager, bartender and sommelier in some of the country's top bars and restaurants, including Whisky & Alement, Lee Ho Fook and Spice Temple, and designed numerous award-winning beverage programs and events. When not entertaining her two daughters, Ev now works as a spirits blender, consultant and spirits judge, and is more officially known as the 'Queen of the Dram'.