Whisky review: Bellarine first release, 23rd Street’s first Renmark malt, and new classics

Luke McCarthy -
Whisky Reviews
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On tasting: 23rd Street Distillery Single Malt Whisky Batch 1, Bellarine Single Malt Whisky ‘Bad Boy Billy’, Killara Laphroaig Cask Finish, Fleurieu The Jabberwocky and Black Gate Peated BG075

So this was a wicked little round-up. I’ve been looking forward to trying Bellarine Distillery’s first release since it was launched a few weeks back, and as mentioned below, I’m curious to see what ‘The Whiskery’ will put out next. The distillery’s in a stunning part of the country and they’ve got all the ingredients down there for making quality juice.

I’d also strongly recommend a visit to the 23rd Street Distillery in Renmark if you’re ever in the area. The complete opposite to the Bellarine coast, Renmark is three hours north west of Adelaide up in the Riverland, straddling the Murray. It’s a fascinating place to mature spirit, dry and arid, with sweltering summers and cool winters.

And in fact, there’s a lot known about maturing spirit there. St Agnes Distillery, Australia’s top brandy makers, have been laying down exceptional brandy in Renmark for several decades (they’re also set to release an extensively matured single malt in future, one to keep on your radar).

I revisited 23rd Street’s new malt, reviewed below, several times over the last couple days (it’s well worth a look). I’m not sure it’s quite there yet, but I love seeing full-term maturation in ex-Bourbon casks, especially in that climate, so I’m keen to see how future batches come on.

The other three malts, well, they’re among Australia’s most consistent performers at the moment, and here they’re flexing their creative muscle to stunning effect (get on that Black Gate).

  • 23rd Street Distillery Single Malt Whisky (Batch 1)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at 23rd Street Distillery in Renmark through their historic 7500 litre pot stills from a pale malt mash. Matured in 200 litre first-fill ex-Bourbon casks for four summers (presumably four years?) and released May 2021 for World Whisky Day.
    • Location: Renmark, SA
    • Score: 81
    Nose
    Pears, green banana, lemon sorbet and sawn timber. There's a pleasant maltiness underneath, and plenty of vanilla from the AO, but sandalwood, nutmeg, and a hint of pencil shavings are overriding. Give it some air, opens up with time in glass.
    Palate
    Manuka honey, loud American oak, and then some heat and astringency. More pears and citrus, but that earthy woodiness is closing things down. Tried a touch of water, brought out a bit more creaminess and fruit.
    Finish
    Light here, and a bit muted.
    Comments
    Love the design - there's nowhere to hide, and it's great to see full maturation in 200 litre ex-Bourbon casks. But there's a few elements that aren't quite together yet, and it doesn't have the fruit and finesse of the earlier 23rd Street malt. Keen to try future batches.
  • Bellarine Single Malt Whisky 'Bad Boy Billy'
    The Stats
    • ABV: 55%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: This first release was distilled in 2018 at Bellarine Distillery through an 800 litre pot still from a pale malt mash. Matured in two heavily charred pinot noir barrels sourced from Scotchmans Hill winery that were re-coopered down to 100 litre casks. After two years in the pinot casks, the whisky was then married together in a first-fill ex-Bourbon cask. Bottled April 2021. 301 bottles in total.
    • Location: Bellarine, VIC
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Bright red fruits - apples and raspberries. Caramel and butterscotch as it opens up, and then grape must, mandarin and lavender.
    Palate
    Fresh and fruity here, too. The pinot influence is refreshingly subtle - no thick wineyness here. It's all berries, malted caramel, roses and freshly crushed grapes. Pretty easy-going for 55%. Gets a little hot as it moves along, a fun, youthful heat, that'll dissipate in future bottlings.
    Finish
    The wine tannins lightly grip at the back, but there's plenty of malt and fruit to carry it along.
    Comments
    This is fun, and really well thought out. The extra maturation has integrated the whole and at no point does the wine dominate - the pinot influence has a refined, perfumey air to it. Great start, keen to see what's next.
  • Killara Single Malt Whisky Laphroaig Cask Finish
    The Stats
    • ABV: 53.3%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Killara Distillery and matured in a 100 litre tawny cask before being finished in an ex-Laphroaig cask for 12 weeks. Bottled 26th March 2021. 200 bottles in total.
    • Location: Richmond, TAS
    • Score: 90
    Nose
    Oof, bit goin' on here. Tawny sticks out immediately - cloves, stewed fruit and raisins, then the Killara butterscotch and toffee, and then a very subtle sea spray, medicine cabinet thing straight outta Islay.
    Palate
    Laphroaig cask is more prevalent here, adds a whiff of iodine and charcoal to that rich, nougat-esque Killara malt. Tawny is still the star, but everyone's playing along nicely.
    Finish
    Long and velvety.
    Comments
    Delicious. Killara fans will rejoice at another exceptional malt, and Islay fans can entertain themselves by picking out hints of Laphroaig. Everyone's kicked a goal.
  • Fleurieu The Jabberwocky Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: A marriage of barrel-ends (leftovers after decanting) and other Fleurieu tawny and apera casks, some peated, that 'didn't exhibit the typical Fleurieu DNA'. Bottled April 2021. 750 bottles in total.
    • Location: Goolwa, SA
    • Score: 88
    Nose
    Every time you approach, something different appears. Blackcurrants and figs. Asparagus and cardamon. Apera and tawny say hello and goodbye. It's herbal and salty - spice rack and smoked wood. And soy sauce, too (seriously).
    Palate
    The nose takes you all over the place, but the palate brings you back to Goolwa. It's big and syrupy, toffee and jam, almonds and sea salt.
    Finish
    Ash and treacle, with a salty, smoky edge.
    Comments
    Bold, even frabjous, you might say, and shows how confident the Andrews' are becoming in bringing together disparate elements to create a more complex whole. Love the wacky umami-ness. Callooh! Callay!
  • Black Gate Peated Single Malt Whisky (BG075)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled June 2017 from a mash of Scottish peated malt. Matured in a single tawny cask and bottled February 2021. 210 bottles in total.
    • Location: Mendooran, NSW
    • Score: 93
    Nose
    The definition of sweet peat. Campfire and brioche. Lanolin and charred capsicum, brown sugar and burnt orange.
    Palate
    Ahh, yum. Again, sweet and smoky, burnt caramel and smoked ribs. The tawny mingles perfectly with the peated malt and it's lift off on the mid-to-back palate.
    Finish
    Huge flourish of malt and treacle, and the campfire keeps burning.
    Comments
    Pretty brilliant. I don't know how Brian and Genise manage to pack so much flavour into their malts, but this is so balanced and moreish, sort of smashable, actually, despite the complexity. One of the most enjoyable Aussie malts I've tried in a while.
How We Score
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.