On tasting: Morris Signature Single Malt, Muscat Barrels Single Malt and Highwayman Single Malt Batch SC#1
At first glance, this is just a taste of three new whiskies matured in fortified wine casks that have attracted a lot of recent attention and hype. But dig a little deeper, and there are contrasts here which reflect some broader movements in the Australian industry.
I’ve always been curious as to why more Australian wineries, like Morris of Rutherglen, haven’t dabbled in whisky making. Many have the skills, equipment (old stills) and ingredients to create quality spirit, and with ready access to the casks that Aussie whisky makers rely so heavily on, it seems like a no brainer to me.
And while some of Australia’s most significant wine personalities are involved with some of Australia’s biggest whisky brands, Morris’s entry into the market is the first significant leap across by a winemaker. I’d be surprised if it’s the last.
The way Morris have leaned so heavily on international expertise, especially Scottish, is also notable. That tutelage has resulted in a more Scottish-style Australian malt: it’s less oak-forward, more spirit driven, the bottle looks like it’s emerged fresh out of River Spey, and most significantly, it’s affordable, thanks to the scale and success of Casella Family Brands.
Dan Woolley’s first solely Byron-Bay produced malt, on the other hand, is the opposite to the Morris project. Dan spoke to me last year about his desire to keep things small scale, limited and high quality, following the path trodden by Tasmanian distilleries, particularly the likes of Tim Duckett with Heartwood.
The Highwayman whiskies have made good on that promise, and Dan’s hugely rich and cask-forward whiskies have deservedly won him a legion of devoted fans.
Now, I’m not trying to pit these two approaches against each other in some malt whisky grudge match. Personally, I just like to revel in the variety we’re getting to taste and explore these days, and there’s plenty of that on show here.
