Review: Lark core range, limited release and rare cask whiskies

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On tasting: The Lark core range – Classic, Cask Strength and Symphony No. 1. Limited cask finish whiskies, including Dark Lark, Muscat, Christmas Cask, Cuvee and Chinotto Cask II. And some Rare Cask Series bottlings: Para 1992, Para 50 II and Mizunara Cask.

Tasting these whiskies over the last few months has been odd to say the least. The last time I sat down to taste single malt whisky with ‘Lark’ on the front label, everything came from, well… Lark Distillery.

Obviously, we’re in a different epoch now, and for the full breakdown on how the House of Lark bottlings came to be, check out my essay on the progression of the Lark story.

At first, when you’re not quite sure where the distillate has come from (Nant, Overeem, Old Kempton?), you can’t help but try to guess. Initially, that’s kind of fun, but when you line-up a big vertical of different Lark whiskies (this is only half of what I’ve tried of late), then things start to get a bit disorientating.

Of course, the elephant in the room when talking about and tasting Lark whisky these days is the price of the limited and rare cask bottlings, predominately $500-$1200, with some between $1900-$2500. You can see my thoughts on the individual bottlings below, but the simple takeaway is, no, of course they’re not worth the money. But the luxury whisky market is certainly not targeted at a middling oaf like me, and if people are finding value in these whiskies then so be it.

My other takeaway – revisit the Lark core range. The distilling team have done a great job improving the quality and consistency of the Lark Classic Cask and Cask Strength over the last few years. They’re my pick of the whole portfolio, but maybe that’s the nostalgist in me coming through.

Of the several thousand limited release whiskies Lark have released over the last two years, there have definitely been hits and misses. Release a couple of new whiskies every month and there’s bound to be some inconsistency. And as much as Lark have been derided for their zanier experiments with jus and chinotto-infused casks, criticism that’s somewhat justified, I actually think some of those bottlings have been their most successful.

Moving forward, it’s going to be fascinating to see what’s pulled out of Lark’s now large inventory of casks. How will the limited release whiskies evolve as other makes are added to the fold? What becomes of Lark’s original Cambridge distillery when Pontville’s up and running? And could more single malt distilleries in Tasmania be brought into the Lark Distilling business? There’s plenty to stay across, so watch this space.

 

  • Lark Classic Cask Single Malt Whisky (2022 bottling)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 43%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Starts with malted barley from Joe White maltings (previously Cascade). 50% of the malt is peated at Lark using their post-malt smoking process with peat from sourced from Brown Marsh bog. Malt is mashed and fermented onsite (7 day ferment) and then double distilled in Knapp Lewer pot stills at Lark's Coal River Valley Distillery (Cambridge). The Classic Cask, first released in 2015, is drawn from a variety of casks, predominately 100 litre ex-tawny, although a variety of other casks and sizes have also been used in the past.
    • Location: Cambridge, TAS
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Biscuits, cereal and a hint of wood and tawny. Malt and nougat, raspberry jam on burnt toast. Can't really find that hint of smoke that used to be there, but maybe that's just me.
    Palate
    A little creamier than I remember, but otherwise, bang on for the Classic Cask. Expected grip and tannin on the mid-palate, where that spicy, jammy, nutmeg vibe from the fortified influence comes on. Nutty and slightly biscuity here, too. Starts to grip as it moves along, but lovely balance between spirit and cask overall.
    Finish
    Cereal and a fragrant wood spice on the tail. Just enough carry-through.
    Comments
    Very similar to the last time I sat down with the Classic Cask in 2020, which is a real achievement in the Australian context. If anything, it almost feels a bit creamier and cleaner, and I don't know if it's just me, but that soft peat smoke note seems to be becoming less prevalent compared to earlier bottlings. Otherwise, the malt drive is still there and the tawny, grip and tannin are doing their thing. It's a solid core range offering, and one of my preferred drops from the Lark portfolio.
  • Lark Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky (2022 bottling)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 58%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Virtually the same as the Classic Cask, but diluted to 58%.
    • Location: Cambridge, TAS
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    The malt and cereal dials up here. Leather, treacle and mahogany from the cask, camphor and wood shavings. At this higher ABV, not quite as expressive and fruity as the Classic Cask.
    Palate
    Much more cask forward. More richness and grip, with brown sugar and fruit cake - feels a bit stickier and thicker (colour suggests that, too.) Big spike and grip on the mid palate. Malt and spirit really kick through here.
    Finish
    Jammy sweetness from the cask. Getting a little dry, woody and tart though.
    Comments
    Again, hard to fault this for consistency against previous releases I’ve tried. Definitely richer and more cask forward than the Classic (not sure if there's any difference in the cask profile between the two these days?). Both make for great drinking depending on your mood, but I personally think the lower ABV brings out more complexity and nuance. Horses for courses though.
  • Lark Symphony No. 1 Blended Malt Whisky (2022 bottling)
    The Stats
    • ABV: 40.2%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Blended malt whisky
    • Production Story: A marriage of malt whiskies from Lark Distilling Co.'s inventory, including ex-Bourbon cask (Nant), ex-apera and ex-tawny (Lark).
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 84
    Nose
    Tropical start - passionfruit and tinned apricot. Gets more floral as it opens, hints of the Lark malt and tawny, vanilla and fruit chews. Some prickle and youth here, too, which I didn't get in previous batches.
    Palate
    Fleshy and malty, lengthening into kiwi fruits and mango. Rides along nicely on the ex-Bourbon casks, creamy and surprisingly textural.
    Finish
    This is where it falls away unfortunately. Lacks depth and carry.
    Comments
    As I've said before, really well designed and put together. Not quite as seamless and complex as earlier batches I've tried, but still a nice balance of flavours. I'd love to try this at a higher ABV, but I know that's not the game here. Great to mix with, too, although it's priced too high, especially for a 500ml bottle, to make it a go-to on that front.
  • Lark Muscat Cask Finish II Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 57%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Finished in ex-Seppeltsfield muscat casks. No information on where this is from or what it was initially matured in. Released March 2022. 2000 bottles in total.
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 85
    Nose
    Musty fruit, botrytis and a big hit of fruit cake and cinnamon. Opens up with time. The spikiness blows off and dark chocolate and figs say hello.
    Palate
    A little prickly at first at 57%, but then a big dollop of treacle, quince and butterscotch. Gets a little dry and spicy as it moves along, with some fuzzy tannin, macadamia and citrus. Improved a little with water.
    Finish
    More toffee and treacle, grape must and boozy fruitcake.
    Comments
    Some incredible flavours from those old muscat casks - you really taste the juicy mustiness from the previous fill. Just found it got a little dry and oak-laden. Improved with time in glass and a little water.
  • Lark Frogmore Creek Cuvee Cask Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Finished in Frogmore Creek Sparkling Cuvee casks. No information on where this was distilled or what it was initially matured in. Released January 2022. 350 bottles in total.
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 86
    Nose
    Woah, this is different. Fresh and bright, with white flowers, orange oil and lemon peel. White grapes and Sauternes.
    Palate
    Actually comes across slightly spritzy and zesty. Bizarre. Richer than you expect, toasted oak, nutmeg and some booming, earthy tannin from the casks. Still plenty of malt poking through as well. Treacle, banana and caramel as it hums along.
    Finish
    Malty, meandering a little, but plenty to like.
    Comments
    A surprise package this. Really enjoyed how zany and different it is. Super fragrant and floral, and the sparkling casks have added some intriguing flavours. Can't say I've tried too many whiskies finished in ex-sparkling wine casks, but I'll seek more out now. (How many Tassie sparkling winemakers use oak for fermentation or aging? Help me out wine nerds.)
  • Lark Christmas Cask III Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Finished in Tasmanian red wine casks that were seasoned with jus used for making fruit mince pies. Again, no other production info available. Released November 2021.
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 85
    Nose
    Well, yep, it's Christmas in a glass. Fudge and brandied cherries, stewed red fruits and white sugar. You still get the spirit and the malt poking through, though. Sort of odd, but pretty enticing.
    Palate
    Definitely get the wine cask influence upfront. Then it's a delightful clash of vanilla, nutmeg, crème brûlée and raspberry shortbread. Slight licorice and anise as it continues. Wine cask influence is odd but mostly delicious.
    Finish
    Fruity creaminess, hints of tabacoo, mince pie and spice, and a lick of spirit.
    Comments
    If you're a purist, then I doubt this'll be your bag, and this likely wouldn't be a legal finishing cask under UK and European regulations. I thought I'd hate it, but I have to admit, it's pretty bloody delicious. There's a couple of moments where the spirit hangs out a bit, but otherwise, the flavours are well integrated and I can see why it's been wildly popular. Definite crowd pleaser.
  • Lark Chinotto Cask II Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 49%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Lark's Coal River Valley Distillery and finished for two months in a cask that previously contained a locally made chinotto. Released March 2022. 2820 bottles in total.
    • Location: Cambridge, TAS
    • Score: 87
    Nose
    Wow. This is different. Cola nut, sweet vermouth and orange rind. Still plenty of malt and cereal coming through as well. Allspice and vanilla coke and sort of a brioche, confectionery vibe.
    Palate
    Geez, this is pretty cool. I think. Bold and round, it's the proper Lark/Cambridge experience. Cloves, earthy smoke and honey on toast. The chinotto influence has been well managed, doesn't drown this at all. Like it at this ABV as well.
    Finish
    Warming and spicy. Smoke and cola lingering.
    Comments
    It's kind of baffling that this works so well. There's a lot sympathies of flavour between the Lark profile and the chinotto. If you've made cocktails or mixed drinks with Lark whisky before (considered heresy by some), then that wouldn't come as a surprise. Fair enough if you're a purist and you don't think this style of cask should be allowed. But I would at least give this a try anyway. You might even like it.
  • Dark Lark Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 41.9%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Exclusively matured in ex-muscat casks. That's all I know.
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 76
    Nose
    Hmm. Definitely get the muscat, but definitely get the youth and new make, too. Cinnamon and maple syrup, peaches, must sticks and dates.
    Palate
    Heat and chalkiness. Raisins and chocolate syrup over pancakes. Other than that, thin and spiky as it moves along. Sticky muscat over spirit, and pretty disjointed overall.
    Finish
    Short. Syrupy. Spirity.
    Comments
    One of the poorer Lark whiskies I've ever tried. The marketing copy talked this up as being 'fun', 'approachable', having 'a distinctly youthful edge', and being great for mixing in a cold weather cocktail. If this was around $80 a bottle I could maybe get on board. But this is $250 for a 500ml bottle! Taking the...
  • Lark Para 1992 Cask Finish Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 46.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Finished in casks that previously held Seppelstfield tawny for 30 years. Released February 2022. 3000 bottles in total.
    • Location: Tasmania
    • Score: 80
    Nose
    Soft, earthy smoke upfront. Plenty of tawny coming through, a little spirit heat, too. Tobacco and bacon as it opens up, with dark berries and leather as the Seppelstfield influence pops out.
    Palate
    A little hot, and a little grippy. The expected whack of tawny, with lots of burnt toffee, honey oats and fruit and nut chocolate. The peat smoke is less prominent here again. You certainly get the spicy old tawny notes from the Seppelstfield casks, but not sure it's married up fully with the spirit.
    Finish
    Fruit cake and nutmeg and getting a little dry.
    Comments
    Some nice moments here, but don't think the array of components have quite come together, which is a shame, considering the price being asked ($500!). Being lightly peated, presumably this is from Lark's 'Coal River Valley Distillery' in Cambridge. However, that's not stated anywhere on the bottle or the packaging. So where was this one distilled? Hmm.
  • Lark Para 50 II Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 52.5%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Lark's Coal River Valley Distillery and finished in casks that previously held 50 year old Seppeltsfield Para Vintage Tawny. Released November 2021. 900 bottles in total.
    • Location: Cambridge, TAS
    • Score: 82
    Nose
    A little meaty to start. Then lashings of rich, dense oak and tawny. Espresso and a wisp of smoke, burnt caramel and ginseng.
    Palate
    Thinner than expected. 90% dark chocolate, dried figs and apricots. Hint of smoke, too. Certainly pleasant, and the finishing casks don't dominate, but gets a little dull and dry over the whole journey.
    Finish
    Not the longest. Some astringency from the cask grips, but there's some treacle and smoke there, too.
    Comments
    Always going to be an oak-driven experience. The integration here is pleasant enough, and there's some nice flavours from the old casks. I did find it just got a bit dry and one note ('old tawny') overall though, and it's not quite as round, malty and balanced as the top Lark/Cambridge malts. And for the price ($750), dreamin'.
  • Lark Mizunara Rare Cask Release Single Malt Whisky
    The Stats
    • ABV: 49.4%
    • Price Band: $ $ $ $ $
    • Style: Single malt whisky
    • Production Story: Distilled at Lark's Bothwell Distillery (Nant) and initially matured in second fill ex-Bourbon casks before being finished for three months in mizunara casks. Released July 2021. 845 bottles in total.
    • Location: Bothwell, TAS
    • Score: 88
    Nose
    Despite only three months in mizunara, you detect it early on - slight incense and pine. Floral too, jasmine and white flowers, pears and gentle hints of malt.
    Palate
    Spot on ABV. Subtle creaminess. Pretty yum actually. Slight prickle of wood and incense, vanilla and coconut. Only hints of the mizunara. The classic pears and citrus you'd expect from Nant.
    Finish
    Creamy and malty, solid length, temples, tapioca and allspice.
    Comments
    I’m relieved that I enjoyed this. I tried this next to some other Irish and Scottish mizunara finished whiskies, and the Lark was actually the most subtle of the lot. For such minimal mizunara influence, it does, however, make you wonder about the whole bloody point of the exercise. Basically, this is just good drinking Bourbon cask Nant with a tiny hint of mizunara thrown in for some intrigue. The price is completely ridiculous, but I see Lark's now sold through it, so there you go.
Luke McCarthy
Luke McCarthy is the editor and publisher of Oz Whisky Review. An independent writer, author and drinks columnist, Luke's written about whisky and spirits for numerous Australian and international publications and is a judge at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. His book, The Australian Spirits Guide, the first to tackle the history and resurgence of the Australian spirits industry, was published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books.